A LA CARTE : SCRUMPTIOUS SOUFFLES.

Byline: Larry Lipson

There's nothing worse than a souffle that falls. Or one that sags. Or one that has a runny inside once you break through the top.

Consequently, many restaurant chefs don't offer them, preferring to do something easier.

But what better way is there to finish a good meal than with a sinful souffle, oh so sweet, oh so airy light that it seems like there's hardly anything there?

So for those who yearn for a souffle, one of life's most creative indulgences, here are a few restaurants worth consideration:

Arnie Morton's of Chicago

Address: 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American steakhouse.

Flavors: Chocolate, Grand Marnier, lemon and raspberry.

Price: $12.

Comments: You'll find bigger souffles here than anywhere, matching the big steaks and big potatoes. Morton's souffles measure 8 to 10 inches in height, 6 inches in diameter. Yes, they're enough for two or more.

Bistro Garden at Coldwater

Address: 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Contemporary continental.

Flavors: Chocolate or lemon.

Price: $7.

Comments: This is the Bistro's signature dessert. When offered at summer food festivals, there's always a long line of eager souffle fanciers present.

JoeJoe's

Address: 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: New American.

Flavors: Chocolate only.

Price: $5.

Comments: Not the traditional souffle, this is more a souffle cake. It's served with vanilla ice cream on the side and a sprinkling of Valhrona cocoa powder.

Le Chardonnay

Address: 8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Flavors: Chocolate, Grand Marnier, lemon, raspberry, strawberry, or any reasonable flavor you request.

Price: $7.50.

Comments: To many, this is the city's ultimate French bistro. Modeled in art nouveau style after Vagenande, a well-known Paris eating place, its magnificent mirrors and gleaming woodwork offer an atmosphere that is totally Gallic and worthy of souffles fashioned in the finest French tradition.

L'Ermitage

Address: 9291 Burton Way. Beverly Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

Flavors: Artichoke.

Price: $10.50.

Comments: There are, of course, savory souffles as well as sweet ones. Here's a rendition that chef Serge Falesitch makes. And it's wonderful.

Mistral 

Address: 13422 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Flavors: Chocolate, Grand Marnier and lemon.

Price: $6.

Comments: Don't try to order more than one of these flavors on the same evening. They are rotated.

Moustache Cafe

Address: 8155 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. (Also in Westwood.)

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Flavors: Chocolate, Grand Marnier, also a combination of both (half and half).

Price: $6.

Comments: These are large-size souffles, easily enough to satisfy two sinful nibblers.

Ritz-Carlton Huntington Hotel (The Grill)

Address: 141 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Contemporary American.

Flavors: Rum raisin, coconut creme Anglaise, fresh raspberry, Kahlua cinnamon, Grand Marnier.

Price: $7.50.

Comments: One of these flavors is featured each night, but the kitchen will sometimes take a request in advance for a nonfeatured favorite.

Saddle Peak Lodge

Address: 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Classic American.

Flavors: Apricot or chocolate.

Price: $7.75.

Comments: The kitchen requests that souffle orders be made at the same time entrees orders are submitted.

Spago Beverly Hills

Address: 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Euro-Californian.

Flavors: Right now it's a creme fraiche souffle, Austrian pancake style with sauteed strawberries in a star anise sauce.

Price: $8.

Comments: You never know what they'll come up with at Spago.