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A LA CARTE : RACK OF LAMB.


Byline: Larry Lipson

It's almost as difficult to find a dinner menu without rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb
crown roast

rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton

lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting
 these days as one without at least one pasta dish.

And those racks of lamb do vary.

Quality and price differ. So does preparation, though rosemary sometimes seems as stuck to lamb as butter to bread.

Years ago a bouquetiere of vegetables was often the accompaniment to a rack of lamb. And the waiter sometimes would separate the chops with a flourish for the diner at tableside ta·ble·side  
n.
The area beside or around a table, especially in a restaurant.

adv. & adj.
Made or prepared alongside a table: lamb that was carved tableside; a tableside recitation of the menu.
. Invariably in·var·i·a·ble  
adj.
Not changing or subject to change; constant.



in·vari·a·bil
, those little paper ``panties'' would enfold en·fold  
tr.v. en·fold·ed, en·fold·ing, en·folds
1. To cover with or as if with folds; envelop.

2. To hold within limits; enclose.

3. To embrace.
 the bone ends, allowing diners to handle them without fear of ``soiling'' their hands.

Today, even at fancy restaurants, such amenities are pooh-poohed.

Meanwhile, here are a few restaurants that cook a rack of lamb worth consideration:

Bistro Garden at Coldwater

Address: 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: (818) 501-0202.

Cuisine: Contemporary continental.

Dish description: Indonesian style rack of lamb, rosemary jus.

Price: $26.50.

Capo

Address: 1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica.

Phone: (310) 394-5550.

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish description: Rosemary-crusted rack of lamb.

Price: $32.

Derek's

Address: 181 E. Glenarm St., Pasadena.

Phone: (626) 799-5252.

Cuisine: Contemporary Californian.

Dish description: Rack of lamb with wild mushrooms and peppered gnocchi gnoc·chi  
pl.n.
Dumplings made of flour, semolina, or potatoes, boiled or baked and served with grated cheese or a sauce.



[Italian, pl.
.

Price: $25.

La Cachette

Address: 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles
  • West Los Angeles, Los Angeles, California, a neighborhood of Los Angeles
  • West Los Angeles (region), a popularly identified region of Los Angeles, incorporating the neighborhood above
.

Phone: (310) 470-4992.

Cuisine: French.

Dish description: Roasted marinated baby rack of lamb with rosemary jus, served with cumin cumin or cummin (both: kŭm`ĭn), low annual herb (Cuminum cyminum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), long cultivated in the Old World for the aromatic seedlike fruits.  carrots and garlic parsley potatoes.

Price: $26.

L'Ermitage

Address: 9291 Burton Way, Beverly Hills.

Phone: (310) 278-3344.

Cuisine: International.

Dish description: Mustard-grilled New Zealand lamb rack with Tuscan fava bean ragout ra·gout  
n.
A well-seasoned meat or fish stew, usually with vegetables.



[French ragoût, from ragoûter, to revive the taste, from Old French ragouster : re-,
, sun-dried tomato-rosemary jus.

Price: $28.50.

94th Aero Squadron

Address: 16320 Raymer St., Van Nyys.

Phone: (818) 994-7437.

Cuisine: American.

Dish description: New Zealand rack of lamb marinated in rosemary, shallots and spices, seared sear 1  
v. seared, sear·ing, sears

v.tr.
1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1.

2.
 and oven-finished, served with a crown of garlic mashed potatoes. Mint jelly upon request.

Price: $21.95.

Paul's Cafe

Address: 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: (818) 789-3575.

Cuisine: American.

Dish description: Garlic-rubbed rack of lamb with a goat cheese and potato tart, brown butter spinach, mint au jus.

Price: $15.95.

Porter's

Address: 11690 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood.

Phone: (310) 826-1446.

Cuisine: New American.

Dish description: Oven-roasted rack of lamb with black olive-stuffed potato, baby vegetables and rosemary lamb jus.

Price: $28.

Portofino

Address: 13251 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: (818) 986-3190.

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish description: Rack of lamb marinated with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, rosemary, a little lemon and served with mint jelly.

Price: $19.95.

Restaurant 2117

Address: 2117 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles.

Phone: (310) 477-1617.

Cuisine: Japanoise.

Dish description: New Zealand rack of lamb with mint veal reduction, grilled portobello por·to·bel·lo   or por·ta·bel·la or por·to·bel·la
n. pl. por·to·bel·los or por·ta·bel·las
A mature, very large cremini mushroom.



[Origin unknown.]
 mushroom, asparagus.

Price: $14.95.

Rix

Address: 1415 Fifth St., Santa Monica.

Phone: (310) 656-9688.

Cuisine: New American.

Dish description: Grilled rack of Sonoma lamb with eggplant ratatouille ra·ta·tou·ille  
n.
A vegetable stew, usually made with eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onions, seasoned with herbs and garlic.



[French, from alteration of toillier, touiller,
, minted lamb jus.

Price: $29.

Splash

Address: Crowne Plaza Hotel, 350 N. Harbor Drive, Redondo Beach.

Phone: (310) 798-5348.

Cuisine: Euro-Cal-Asian.

Dish description: Crusted rack of lamb with cannelloni can·nel·lo·ni  
n.
1. Pasta in large-sized tubes.

2. A dish consisting of such tubes stuffed with meat, vegetables, or cheese and baked in a tomato or cream sauce.



[Italian, pl.
 bean puree and Japanese eggplant, bell pepper sauce with mild spices.

Price: $24.

Twin Palms

Address: 101 W. Green St., Pasadena.

Phone: (626) 577-2567.

Cuisine: Californian.

Dish description: Whole rack of baby lamb with pecan persillade crust, served with a twice-baked potato and rosemary-pinot noir sauce.

Price: $24.95.
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Copyright 1998, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Oct 8, 1998
Words:547
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