A LA CARTE : PORTOBELLO PARADE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Years ago it was difficult to find fresh mushrooms in restaurants. The majority of kitchens used canned or dried ones in salads, on pizzas, in soups and sauces.

Today, a canned mushroom in a dish is an anathema. Still utilized often are dried black Chinese and dried porcini mushrooms.

But recently the portobello has risen to restaurant stardom.

Rising above the cremini, enoki, chanterelle, morel and shiitake, the giant portobello provides and earthy slab that some chefs like to serve to veggie lovers grilled whole as an alternative to a steak.

Here are a few restaurants where it is regularly offered:

Book Soup Bistro

Address: 8800 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

Comments: A recent change in kitchen management seems to have revived things here from a culinary standpoint.

Picks: Portobello fans will love the whole giant mushroom that has been marinating in olive oil and garlic, served steakburger-style on a bun as a sandwich with pesto mayonnaise. Accompaniment is a choice of fries, coleslaw or couscous.

The Chez

Address: Beverly Prescott Hotel, 1224 Beverwil Drive, Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American/International.

Comments: Chef Michael Shafer keeps up with all the food trends without losing sight of the need to serve plain, good tasting food and handsome presentation. This is the sibling restaurant to several South Bay favorites (Chez Melange, Fino, Misto, Depot and Descanso).

Picks: Shafer grills his portobellos simply and serves them effectively with a roasted red wine and garlic sauce.

La Cachette

Address: 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Comments: Jean Francois Meteigner, now on his own, has vaulted into the top echelon of chefs in the L.A. area.

Picks: Meteigner serves his portobellos whole and warm with chopped arugula. He emulsifies lentils and shallots with olive oil and balsamic vinegar as an interesting saucing with this dinner appetizer.

Magpie's

Address: 42 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Contemporary continental.

Comments: There are several nifty surprises on the menu here, if you look hard enough.

Picks: The portobellos are roasted and served with a house rendition of dried beef jerky.

Mi Piace

Address: 801 N. San Fernando Road, Burbank. (Also in Pasadena.)

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Comments: This is the second location of the popular Pasadena trattoria.

Picks: Listed on the menu as funghi portobello alla griglia, which translates into marinated, grilled portobellos, the chef cuts them into strips and places them warm on mixed field greens for an appetizer or luncheon salad.

Outback Steak House

Address: 18711 Devonshire St., Northridge.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Beef with Australian accents.

Comments: This is a packed newcomer to the North Valley, in a spot where previously Ravioli, Reuben's and the Plankhouse stood.

Picks: A dish called veggie pasta Pemberton uses portobellos with char-grilled vegetables and sun-dried tomatoes in a ``unique semolina sauce flavored with garlic and herbs.''

Papashon

Address: 15910 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (Also in Pasadena and Beverly Hills.)

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Pacific Rim/International.

Comments: Chef-partner Sean Sheridan (the ``shon'' in Papashon) has developed a menu of interesting dishes, most of them with pronounced or subtle Asian accents.

Picks: Sheridan pairs his grilled portobellos with marinated flank steak and a red wine reduction sauce for a popular luncheon entree.

Picasso

Address: 1416 Fourth St., Santa Monica.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Mediterranean.

Comments: Recently opened on the site of Fama with chef Sylvie Vicat-Amati, specializing in French, Italian and Spanish fare.

Picks: Called, Il fungho, Vicat-Amati grills marinated a whole portobello and puts it on a bed of greens dressed with balsamic vinaigrette and basil.

Rasputin

Address: 13615 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Continental/Russian.

Comments: The Russian accents are obvious at this unusual dining spot with its relatively inexpensive fare.

Picks: The chef here makes a sort of beef Wellington dish where he uses the portobello to make a mushroom duxelle with beef tenderloin wrapped in puff pastry. Its demi-glace sauce is enhanced with plum flavoring.