A LA CARTE : MARTINI MADNESS.

Byline: Larry Lipson

The resurgence of interest in martinis makes many an old-time martini drinker shudder.

That's because martinis today have taken all kinds of twists and turns, some without even using gin or vodka and vermouth.

Here are a few restaurants and boites worth consideration:

Arnie Morton's of Chicago

Address: 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

Comments: This clubby, comfy, prime meat-and-potatoes place delivers drinks in its bar that match the size of its steaks.

Size: Oversize glass holds a 3-ounce regular martini.

Price: Bartender refuses to divulge.

Miscellaneous: Only makes the classic martini, shaken or stirred.

Checkers Martini & Caviar Bar

Address: Wyndham Checkers Hotel, 535 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

Comments: Martinis made to order. House-infused flavored vodkas and an international array of bottled vodkas are stocked here along with three caviars.

Size: Regular size, 1-1/2 ounces.

Price: $5.75 to $9.

Flower Street Bar

Address: Westin Bonaventure Hotel and Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Complimentary appetizers from 5 to 7 p.m. every Thursday and '50s recorded music for its Martini Society rendezvous.

Size: 2 ounces.

Price: $5.95 to $6.95.

Miscellaneous: 45 specialty martinis include My Fair Lady (Finlandia vodka with Godiva chocolate liqueur), Casa Blanca (Maker's Mark bourbon with Amaretto di Saronno), Singing in the Rain (Finlandia vodka with Blue Curacao and cranberry juice), High Society (Fris vodka with cranberry juice and lime) and Rebel Without a Cause (Jack Daniels, Hiram Walker Triple Sec and sweet and sour).

Lola's

Address: 945 N. Fairfax Ave., West Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Californian.

Comments: This lively spot in an unusual art deco building was previously the Hollywood Diner, Tuttobene and Provencia.

Size: Double-size.

Price: $7.50 to $9.50.

Miscellaneous: Over 40 martinis listed with all types of flavors including fruits, candy and spicy peppers. Latest is one called the French Kiss with secret ingredients.

Marvel Mania

Address: 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

Comments: Glitzy new comic-themed restaurant has replaced Victoria Station.

Size: Regular, around 2 ounces.

Price: $5.95.

Miscellaneous: They call them monstrous martinis, and they have names like Negative Zone (Absolut vodka and White Creme de Cocoa), Asgard (Absolut with Cointreau, lime and cranberry juice), Savage Land (Crown Royale with Amaretto and cranberry juice) and Mangotini (frozen with Absolut Citron, Campari and mango ice).

Nic's Martini Lounge

Address: 453 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: New American.

Comments: Chef-owner Larry Nicola recently opened this restaurant on the former site of La Famiglia.

Size: Normal, around 2 ounces.

Price: From $6 to $7.50.

Miscellaneous: List of nine different martinis, varying from the Beverly Hills (B.H.) with ginger-infused Stolichnaya and dry Lillet garnished with a black kalamata olive, to a raspberry concoction with Grey Goose vodka and Creme de Mure with a touch of sweet and sour.

Pinot Hollywood and the Martini Bar

Address: 1448 N. Gower Street, Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French-American.

Comments: Some consider this the best hangout in Hollywood, especially as a place to mellow out after a hard day's show-biz work.

Size: Range from 3- to 5-ounce measures.

Price: $6.25 to $12.

Miscellaneous: About 20 martinis on the current list, from the classic to such concoctions as the chocolate martini. There's one huge one called the Two-Martini Lunch, like a double-double traditional gin or vodka martini.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Shaken or stirred, with vodka, gin or just about anything else, the martini is back with a vengeance at L.A. restaurants and watering holes.