A LA CARTE : LOW, LOW CORKAGE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

You have learned to appreciate good wine. You dine out often. And you deplore the restaurant prices charged for young, everyday wines.

You have been collecting wines for a few years and have some wonderful bottlings, slightly or well-aged.

If you want to drink them with a good meal, where do you go?

Obviously, you want a restaurant that welcomes you, where you're not approached as if you're trying to get away with something when you bring your own bottles that are not on the restaurant's list. (A Krug champagne or a Ridge zinfandel of an older vintage date than the same label on the list would not be considered the same wine.)

So here are a few restaurants with low enough corkage that they're worth considering:

Amore

Address: 17239 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Comments: Known for its cigar nights and pet feeding on the patio, Amore also has redone its menu recently.

Picks: You might have a great bottle to complement the white pizza topped with cream cheese and smoked salmon.

Corkage policy: Bring your finest wine and the charge is $4 per bottle.

Cafe Bizou

Address: 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Comments: At this packed restaurant, which at times has had 85 percent of its dinner customers bringing in their own wine, you won't find better food at its price range anywhere in town.

Picks: The sesame seed-crusted salmon in red wine sauce is perfect for a fish and red wine experience.

Corkage policy: Charge is $2 per bottle.

Chez Jacques

Address: 15466 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Comments: On the onetime site of the landmark Aux Delices, this new Gallic cafe provides a worthy diversion from pasta and pizza neighbors.

Picks: Poached cod with saffron aioli or rack of sesame-crusted lamb are good choices.

Corkage policy: There's a $5-per-bottle charge. But the owner says that if it's a ``really great'' bottle of wine, ``there's no charge.''

Fatty's Row House

Address: 829 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American rustic.

Comments: Moderately priced food is served where Roscoe ``Fatty'' Arbuckle once lived.

Picks: Salmon and tuna tartare and roasted roma tomato soup are worthy starters. And there's a classic macaroni and cheese entree with sliced hot dogs available.

Corkage policy: It's zero, absolutely no charge, as long as the owner-host gets a small taste from your great bottle.

Il Teatro Ristorante

Address: 19563 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Comments: Nicely remodeled, this is a surprisingly impressive addition to the Valley's cucina row.

Picks: Order the Sicilian-style calamari and a tableside-tossed Caesar and you won't need much else. Any pasta or salmon al cartoccio, though, are worth trying.

Corkage policy: Zero if your wine is not on the house list and isn't a cheapo.

Rasputin

Address: 13615 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Contemporary international.

Comments: Interesting menu at this brand-new restaurant pairs meat and fish with fruit or fruit sauces.

Picks: Cherry-studded medallions of filet mignon or grilled sturgeon with pomegranate sauce.

Corkage policy: $2 per bottle.

MEMO: Do you have a question about restaurants? Mail it to Larry Lipson, P.O. Box 4200, Woodland Hills, Calif. 91365-4200, and look for the answer in a future dining beat column in L.A. Life.