A LA CARTE : LAST-MINUTE THANKSGIVING MEALS.

Byline: Larry Lipson

So, you suddenly realize that today is Turkey Day. And you haven't made arrangements to celebrate with a festive, traditional meal.

Your best bet is one of those big Thanksgiving brunch buffets at a hotel or a restaurant that regularly doesn't take reservations and feeds people on a first-come, first-served basis.

Anyway, we've done a little scouting, and though it's recommended that a phone call be made in advance just to be sure you can get in, here are a few restaurants worth turkey-time consideration:

Cafe Plaza

Address: Universal City Hilton and Towers Hotel, 555 Universal Terrace Parkway, Universal City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American/Asian.

You get: An all-you-can-eat buffet meal featuring free-range turkey, roast leg of lamb, duck, butternut squash soup, cranberry ginger relish, garlic mashed potatoes, sweet yams, cornbread stuffing, vegetables, shrimp cocktail, king crab legs, dim sum, calamari, vegetable tempura, barbecued chicken, spicy scallops, fried rice, cherries jubilee, apple cobbler, pastries, cakes and tortes.

When: noon to 8 p.m.

You pay: $27 (children under 12 $14).

94th Aero Squadron

Address: 16320 Raymer Ave., Van Nuys.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

You get: A brunch or dinner buffet with champagne served until 4 p.m., roast filet of beef after 4 p.m. and strolling violinists. Look for roast turkey, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, mussels, poached salmon, lox, bagels, salads, fruits, fresh fish, baked ham, leg of lamb, roast beef, mashed potatoes, candied yams, giblet stuffing, pies, cakes, frozen yogurt, cherries jubilee, juices, cappuccino and more.

When: Champagne brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner feast from 4 to 9 p.m.

You pay: Brunch: $19.94 ($5 less before 11 a.m., children under 12 $8.94, under 6 99 cents). Dinner: $21.94 (children under 12 $10.94, under 6 99 cents).

Pangaea

Address: Hotel Nikko, 485 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

You get: A 12-pound turkey dinner to go with two pies or a jazz brunch in the hotel's Hana Garden featuring turkey with buttermilk gravy, cornbread stuffing with chorizo and sun-dried cherries, butternut squash pasta, bay scallops, cobblers, puddings and pies.

When: Brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Jazz quintet performs from noon to 5 p.m.

You pay: $120 for the dinner for 6 to go. $43 for the brunch (children under 12 $22).

Skoby's Bar & Grill

Address: 20419 Devonshire St., Chatsworth.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

You get: Soup or salad, roast turkey (or alternative) and all the trimmings plus pumpkin or mincemeat pie.

When: From noon.

You pay: $12.95 for turkey meal.

Sportsmen's Lodge Restaurant & Special Events Center

Address: 12833 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American/continental.

You get: A full, traditional Thanksgiving buffet meal with a variety of choices and all the trimmings or a sit-down family-style dinner (minimum four persons) featuring a whole oven-roasted turkey.

When: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

You pay: $120 for the four-person traditional, full-service dinner. $21.95 for the buffet (children under 10 $12).

Radisson Valley Center Hotel

Address: 15433 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American.

You get: An afternoon champagne buffet in the Ballroom that includes carved-to-order roast turkey with all the trimmings, prime rib, salads, shrimp, fruits and an array of desserts. Or a full-service, sit-down, three-course traditional dinner in the Windows dining room that features as much turkey and trimmings as you desire (second and third helpings encouraged).

When: Champagne buffet seats available from 2 to 4 p.m. Dinner reservations accepted from 7 p.m.

You pay: Buffet $19.50 (seniors over 62 $16.75, children 3 to 12 $8.50). Dinner $16.95 (seniors over 62 $12.95, children under 12 $8.50).