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A LA CARTE : IT'S POMEGRANATE SEASON.


Byline: Larry Lipson

You may not have noticed the rush, but the pomegranate pomegranate (pŏm`grănĭt, pŏm`ə–), handsome deciduous and somewhat thorny large shrub or small tree (Punica granatum  is at the peak of its season during October and November.

Consequently, it appears in restaurant recipes this time of year.

On Middle Eastern menus, it often appears as the saucing or glaze for several classic dishes, as it does also in Latin American foods where it's known as granada.

The pomegranate, or seeded apple from the French derivation ``pomme garnete,'' is used by chefs for its juice and seeds for salads, entrees, desserts and beverages.

Here are a few restaurants where the pomegranate's special color and taste are brought to the public:

Araz

Address: 11717 Moorpark St., Studio City.

Phone: (818) 766-1336.

Cuisine: Middle Eastern.

Comments: Lebanese and Syrian fare here is as good as you'll find anywhere, and priced extremely moderately.

Picks: Pomegranate can be found in mouhammara (spicy hot walnut and pomegranate juice Pomegranate juice is a juice made from the pomegranate fruit. Culinary use
Pomegranate juice is enjoyed as a drink in the Middle East. It is also used as an ingredient in the Persian dishes fesenjan and ash-e anar.
 dip) which is traditionally used in Syria and Lebanon to spice up meats and appetizers. Sometimes this mixture is added to salad dressings. It is also utilized to spice up dolma dol·ma  
n. pl. dol·mas or dol·ma·des
A fruit or vegetable, especially a grape leaf or cabbage leaf, cooked with a filling of ground meat, herbs, or rice.



[Turkish, filling.]
, or stuffed eggplant ($6.95), which is an occasional special dish here.

Carousel

Address: 5112 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood.

Phone: (213) 660-8060.

Cuisine: Mediterranean.

Comments: Here for 13 years, it's famous in the area for its kebabs and assorted appetizers.

Picks: The mouhammara dip ($3.50) made with walnut, pepper paste and a pomegranate mixture, is sold strictly as an appetizer. Some patrons keep it throughout the meal as a condiment.

Mexica

Address: 7313 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. .

Phone: (213) 933-7385.

Cuisine: Mexican.

Comments: This contemporary, Yucatan-style cafe features rare chipotle chi·pot·le  
n.
A ripe jalapeño pepper that has been dried and smoked for use in cooking.



[American Spanish, from Nahuatl xipotli.]

Noun 1.
 and olive quesadillas, cochinita pibil Cochinita pibil (also puerco pibil) is a traditional Mexican slow-roasted pork dish from Yucatán. Preparation of traditional cochinita or puerco pibil involves marinating the meat in strongly acidic citrus juice, coloring it with annatto seed, and roasting the meat while it  and green corn tamales.

Picks: Chile relleno The chile relleno, literally "stuffed pepper", is a dish of Mexican cuisine, consisting of a roasted fresh green Anaheim or poblano chili pepper stuffed with a melting cheese, such as queso Chihuahua or queso Oaxaca (traditionally), and/or picadillo meat made up of diced pork,  ($9.25) here is done chile en nogada style, topped with roasted pomegranate seeds. Options are with beef, chicken or manchego cheese stuffing. This dish comes with Spanish rice and mashed pinto beans.

Pinot at the Chronicle

Address: 897 Granite Drive, Pasadena.

Phone: (818) 792-1179.

Cuisine: International.

Comments: Here's the latest of the quickly spreading restaurant empire of Christine and Joachim Splichal. The Splichals often take over former landmark restaurants (Le St. Germain for Patina, La Serre for Pinot Bistro, Columbia Bar & Grill for Pinot Hollywood), and in this instance the longtime popular Chronicle in Pasadena, and give them new life.

Picks: A pomegranate vinaigrette is used with the duck liver mousse terrine ter·rine  
n.
1. An earthenware container for cooking and serving food.

2. Any of various dishes prepared or cooked in a terrine.



[French; see tureen.
 served with a pepper cress cress

Any of several plants of the mustard family, of interest for their spicy young basal leaves, which are used in salads and as seasonings and garnishes. Watercress is perhaps the most popular of the edible cresses.
 salad and warm apple marmalade ($14.95). For dessert, a pomegranate and citrus compote comes with the frozen lemon parfait ($7.95).

Piyaleh

Address: 15030 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: (818) 783-9119.

Cuisine: Persian.

Comments: Cutesy cute·sy  
adj. cute·si·er, cute·si·est Informal
Deliberately or affectedly cute; precious: a cutesy boutique for children's fashions.
 little Persian cafe hidden at back of a mid-boulevard mini-mall, operated by a colorful chef-owner who flavors almost everything with saffron.

Picks: Tah-dig ($4.95), a flat grilled crispy rice cake, is topped with an Iranian fesenjan sauce, made with walnuts and pomegranate, upon request.

Shahrezad

Address: 17547 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Also in Westwood.

Phone: (818) 906-1616.

Cuisine: Persian.

Comments: Recognized as a reliable Persian restaurant producing tasty food at reasonable tariff.

Picks: Fesenjan, the traditional dish of Persia, is a regular menu item here. It consists of broiled broil 1  
v. broiled, broil·ing, broils

v.tr.
1. To cook by direct radiant heat, as over a grill or under an electric element.

2. To expose to great heat.

v.
 chicken topped with a walnut and pomegranate sauce, served with white rice ($9.95).

MEMO: Do you have a question about restaurants? Mail it to Larry Lipson, P.O. Box 4200, Woodland Hills, Calif. 91365-4200, and look for the answer in a future dining beat column in L.A. Life.
COPYRIGHT 1996 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1996, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Oct 17, 1996
Words:575
Previous Article:UP & COMING.(L.A. LIFE)
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