A LA CARTE : EMMY NIGHT TAKEOUT.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Restaurants around town don't seem to be interested in putting on Emmy-watching dinners like they do for the Oscars. But that doesn't mean that Emmy watchers will go hungry. There'll be plenty of munching going on in front of the TV that night.

For the undecided, here are a few varied restaurants with takeout fare worth consideration:

Ben Thai

Address: 11688 Magnolia Blvd., North Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Thai.

Comments: Skillfully cooked Thai food at bargain prices, everything under $8.

Picks: Get the half or whole barbecued chicken, spicy seafood combination and pork prik king plus a load of appetizers.

Chin Chin

Address: 16101 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (Also in Studio City, Marina del Rey, Brentwood, West Hollywood and soon in Las Vegas.)

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Chinese.

Comments: When the grazing rage began in the early '80s, Chin Chin launched its appropriate dim sum menu.

Picks: Dumplings (Cantonese, Szechwan), potstickers, shui mai, bao and shrimp toast are nifty nibbles. Then there's a spicy cilantro-sauced warm chicken and noodles dish and a cold noodles and chicken mix with a spicy peanut sauce. Either or both should spice up the evening for Emmy watchers.

Divino

Address: 11714 Barrington Court, Brentwood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Comments: Good, tasty cucina rustica at moderate tariff.

Picks: Gnocchi piacere are puffy and light potato dumplings. Recommended with porcini mushroom or gorgonzola cheese stuffing. Also try the boneless pollo fantastico whole roasted chicken with herbs and balsamic sauce.

El Paso Barbeque Co.

Address: 18938 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Texas barbecue.

Comments: El Paso is a longtime specialist in takeout barbecued food and the caterer of choice at many show-biz events and parties.

Picks: The rack of babybacks, slab of veal ribs (if available) and platters of barbecued brisket provide perfect Emmy fare.

Hugo's

Address: 8401 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

Comments: Now open for dinner, this is a true foodie's fave.

Picks: Of the good fresh pastas, try the artichoke cannelloni. And for a summery treat, Hugo's carioca pineapple chicken is made with Brazilian spicing. If you're a veggie fan you'll like the vegetarian shepherd's pie here.

Ma's Cafe

Address: 9306 Reseda Blvd., Northridge.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

Comments: A rare list of flavorful Asian and American goodies, all at reasonable to extremely low prices.

Picks: Load up with superb Vietnamese-style rolls stuffed with chicken, pork or shrimp. And Ma's taro rice cakes, grilled mussels with avocado and smelt roe, and shredded pork plate with Szechwan vegetables are sensible choices. For a cool beverage treat, try the cantaloupe honey juice.

Ole L.A.

Address: 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Noveleria Mexicana.

Comments: Intriguing lighter, new-style Mexican food with Westside flair.

Picks: Some cool and spicy ``gazpach-oh'' and brie and grape quesadillas plus salmon enchiladas with pipian (pumpkin seed) sauce should make this night memorable. Definitely add a quart or two of L.A. Ole's much-publicized watermelon lemonade if it's a warm night.

Takzin Thai

Address: 18594 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Thai.

Comments: A West Valley neighborhood favorite.

Picks: A sauteed mix of shrimp, scallops, squid, crab claw, bamboo shoots, napa cabbage, mushrooms and onion called ``eight musketeers,'' and shrimp wrapped with seasoned ground chicken and deep fried called ``midnight shrimp'' are a couple of good ways to start. A third would be Takzin's duck curry.

MEMO: Do you have a question about restaurants? Mail it to Larry Lipson, P.O. Box 4200, Woodland Hills, Calif. 91365-4200, and look for the answer in a future dining beat column in L.A. Life.