A LA CARTE : BURGEONING BALSAMIC.

Byline: Larry Lipson

The sweet, rich aceto balsamico, or balsamic vinegar, is the best from Modena in northern Italy and has become a staple ingredient of many modern restaurant recipes.

Called balsamic because in ancient times it was used as a balsam for its supposed medicinal qualities, it is traditionally aged for many years. It's not unusual to find balsamics that are 100 years old.

Commercial balsamics are often as young as five years.

Here are a few restaurants that have at least one balsamic vinegar-inspired dish on their menus:

Allegria

Address: 22821 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish: Whole deboned chicken in an aged balsamic sauce served in a skillet with roasted potatoes and spinach.

Price: $13.95.

Bistro 45

Address: 45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Californian-French bistro.

Dish: Farm-raised crispy-skin whitefish with whole garlic and balsamic sauce served with shiitake mushroom-mashed potatoes and fresh white corn.

Price: $21.45.

Cheesecake Factory

Address: 6324 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills. Also in Beverly Hills, Marina del Rey, Redondo Beach and Brentwood.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: American-International.

Dish: Grilled, balsamic-marinated chicken medallions with sauteed peppers, onions and mashed potatoes.

Price: $11.95.

Il Tiramisu 

Address: 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish: Arborio risotto with 12-year-old aged balsamic vinegar and parmigiano reggiano cheese (by request).

Price: $14.95.

Le Chardonnay

Address: 8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French bistro.

Dish: Duck foie gras deglazed with balsamic vinegar and served with sauteed green apples. Also braised lamb shank with balsamic-flavored green lentils.

Price: Duck foie gras: $15. Lamb shank: $22.

Locanda Veneta

Address: 8638 W. Third St., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish: Whole deboned chicken marinated in a mixture of olive oil, garlic and rosemary, then grilled and served with aged balsamic vinegar sauce, garlic roasted potatoes and the vegetable du jour.

Price: $15.50.

Pinot Bistro

Address: 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Contemporary bistro.

Dish: Crispy potato and scallop roll with brown butter and balsamic sauce served with sauteed spinach, diced tomatoes and shallots and chives. Also stacked roasted beet salad with gorgonzola cheese, garlic-chive oil and balsamic syrup. Also balsamic-marinated strawberries with honey-mascarpone ice cream.

Price: Scallop roll: $8.95. Beet salad: $6.95. Marinated strawberries: $5.50.

Posto

Address: 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish: Ahi tuna and fava beans with a reduction sauce of balsamic vinegar.

Price:$9.50 as a lunchtime appetizer.

Twin Palms

Address: 101 W. Green St., Pasadena.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Mediterranean Rim.

Dish: Balsamic-maple glazed, giant pork chop served with garlic mashed potatoes and crispy onions. Also balsamic-marinated, grilled eggplant and zucchini Parmesan served on a bed of sweet corn polenta with marinara sauce.

Price: Pork chop: $15.95. Eggplant and zucchini: $9.95.