A French revelation; Travel Hannah Stephenson samples the delights of the beautiful French region of Brittany.

Byline: Hannah Stephenson

FOR my nine-year-old son, it was an adventure into the unknown. Settling himself into the front of the two-man canoe, he and his father paddled out into the vast bay towards the red and green markers that would guide them 16 kilometres down stream to the sea. The wide Kerogan Bay just outside Quimper in southern Brittany is a perfect starting point for beginners who want to take in this beautiful, unchallenging stretch of water, which ripples with the quiet incoming and outgoing tides of the pretty Odet river.

They set off in the morning as the tide was going out towards the sea, helping their passage.

The currents picked up towards the end of their journey along the estuary to Benodet.

This traditional seaside town, whose name means 'tip of the Odet', was used in the Middle Ages as a commercial outer harbour for Quimper, with local produce shipped to Spain, England and the Netherlands.

My daughter and I made the 20-minute drive from our campsite at Lanniron, another historical landmark, to meet them. We whiled away the time in the lively outdoor market at Benodet, picking up crepes, admiring the fish stalls teaming with mussels, sardines and oysters, and perusing the stands offering tastings of regional ciders.

The budding canoeists arrived on the beach two-and-a-half hours later, their watery adventure at an end, their beach activities about to start.

From the long stretch of sandy beach at Benodet and the nearby beach of Cap Coz, you can hire sailing boats, windsurfs and kayaks to take for an hour or two on the sea. It's great fun, but not for the faint-hearted. The Atlantic water is seriously cold and some less hardy individuals had invested in shorty wetsuits from some of the many seafront shops.

On other sunny days we headed for the less commercial Lesconil, a fishing village where we found a virtually deserted white sandy beach. Even in the height of summer in this region there is far more space for you to spread out than there ever would be in a Mediterranean resort, or even in Cornwall.

However, unlike the Mediterranean, the weather in Brittany isn't as reliable. On cloudy days we ventured into other places of interest, including Quimper, capital of western France's Finistere region, a beautiful medieval city full of narrow cobbled streets and half-timbered houses.

Quimper has several claims to fame, including the cathedral of Saint-Corentin, the earliest Gothic cathedral in lower Brittany. The great church was begun in 1240, though its twin spires date from 1856.

The region is also noted for the hand-painted ceramic earthenware known as Faience, which I have to say is an acquired taste with its naive 'folk' designs. Its Festival de Cornouaille of music and folklore attracts several hundred thousand visitors every July.

We cycled from our campsite along the banks of the Odet to Quimper and then crossed one of the narrow bridges which access a pedestrianised area leading up to the narrow cobbled streets awash with chic boutiques, biscuit shops, restaurants and creperies.

Foodies should take a stroll to the Halles, the daily indoor market where you can buy fresh seafood, cheeses, salamis and other local produce, including extremely rich and sweet butter cakes called kouign-amann.

Another place that offers an Aladdin's cave of traditional Breton goods is the walled old town called Ville Close in nearby Concarneau. Ville Close is actually on an island only 350m long and 100m wide connected by a drawbridge, and is one of the very few fortified French towns entirely surrounded by the sea.

Concarneau itself, which has an impressive marina and fishing harbour, grew up around the Ville Close and is the third largest fishing port in France.

History is everywhere in the region - even back at our campsite, L'Orangerie de Lanniron, set in the 66-acre grounds of the Chateau de Lanniron, former residence of the bishops of Quimper, counts of Cornouaille, in the 13th century.

Over the centuries it has been modified and the surrounding gardens were created in the 17th century.

It's an ideal base, just 2km from Quimper and 15 minutes' drive from the beach.

For those who want to get back on the water, it's worth taking a boat trip from Concarneau to les Iles de Glenan, a group of islands ranged around a lagoon of calm blue water and golden sand, called La Chambre.

When the pace of sea life became too much, we just headed back to shore, found a nearby seaside restaurant and tucked into moules et frites and unwound with a glass of Kir Breton.

Travel facts

Hannah Stephenson was a guest of Keycamp Holidays, which offers self-catering holidays to more than 100 top parcs across nine European countries and the USA, all with good facilities and choice of mobile home, chalet or Supertent accommodation.

Seven nights in May 2009 for two adults and up to four children, staying in a Villanova mobile home with decking at Keycamp's L'Orangerie de Lanniron in Quimper in Southern Brittany, starts at pounds 414.50, including return Dover-Calais crossings. Price includes a 10% early booking discount, available on bookings by February 25.

Keycamp fixes alternative ferry crossings, rail travel and fly drive packages at a supplement.

Keycamp reservations: 0844 406 0319/www.keycamp.co.uk

Hannah's car hire was arranged by Hertz, which offers seven days car rental from Brest airport from pounds 197.45.

Hertz enquiries: 08708 448 844/www.hertz.com

CAPTION(S):

BLISSFUL: L'Orangerie de Lanniron from the river Odet home to Keycamp's mobile homes; COMFORT: A Villanova mobile home