A DAM FINE CITY TO SEE; MAILTRAVEL: 60-SECOND GUIDE TO AMSTERDAM.

Byline: Bridget McGrouter

Going Dutch? Liberal, easy-going, multi-cultural Amsterdam... the Dutch capital has a reputation for its tolerance of sex and drugs. This attitude explains why the Red Light District is as much an attraction as its world-class museums. Yet despite modern influences, the magic of Old Amsterdam still remains. On your bike? There are 260 miles of bicycle lanes, so watch out when you're walking. Join the locals and rent a bike, go by tram or on foot - most of the big attractions are within walking distance. Or take a canal tour by glass-topped boat. It's touristy but a relaxing, childfriendly way to see the city.

Being Frank? Anne Frank's diary is translated into more than 60 languages and her secret hiding place is one of Amsterdam's most visited sites. Get there early before queues grow to see the swinging bookcase that hid the door to the attic in Anne Frankhuis, along with her original diary.

Tiptoe through the tulips? In spring, riverboats, barges and coaches tour the countryside as the world's largest floral display blooms. At the Keukenhof Gardens, more than six million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths flower from March to May. At any other time, you can still get tulips at the floating Bloemenmarkt.

Seeing red? Rose-hued lights on canal bridges mark the narrow alleys of the red-light district where window-shopping takes on a new twist as women (and some men) of the night advertise their 'wares'. Van's the man? The van Gogh Museum is a must-see. More than 200 of the artist's paintings are on display, including such masterpieces as The Potato Eaters, The Yellow House, Sunflowers and Wheatfield with Crows. But his name isn't 'Go' or 'Goff' - it's actually 'khoch', like we say 'loch'.

Mastering the arts? Stand in awe before Rembrandt's magnificent The Night Watch in the Rijksmuseum, where more than 150 rooms display works by Dutch and other European masters.

Brownie points? Brown cafes (bruine krogen) are so called because of the smoke-stained walls or old wood panelling. The beer flows readily and many flavours of jenever (Dutch gin) are served. Not to be confused with coffee shops - where you may find an altogether different type of smoke.

Wee gems? Amsterdam diamond-cutters have an international reputation for high-quality gems. Many city-centre diamond shops offer cutting and polishing tours as well as the opportunity to buy your jewels. A good tip? The Dutch government requires that all taxes and service charges are incorporated in the published prices of restaurants, hotels, hairdressers and sightseeing tours, and even taxi fares, include a standard 15 per cent tip. It's not necessary to leave extra although waiters rely on tips to boost their income. Child's play? Artis - the oldest zoo in the Netherlands - has walked on the wild side since 1838, Vondelpark is a huge park with free entry and NEMO is an interactive science museum.

Here for the beer? The Heineken Experience in the former brewery refreshes the parts that other museums cannot reach.

Take the high road? KLM (www.klm.com) flies direct to Amsterdam from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Newcastle, while easyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies from Edinburgh. DFDS Seaways (www.dfdsseaways.co.uk) has ferry crossings from Newcastle to Amsterdam.

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Visit Anne Frankhuis Rembrandt's masterpiece The Nightwatch is in Rijksmuseum