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A BREATH OF FRESH AIR PATIO DINING ONLY PART OF THE APPEAL OF SHADOW HILLS CAFE.


Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

PATIO ONLY dining at the Shadow Hills Cafe is delightful on warm summer days and nights, but what's going to happen when it gets cold and rainy?

``We hope to cover it up,'' said our waitress, who, it turns out, is the daughter of the chef-owner.

Meanwhile, residents and visitors to this horsey hors·y also hors·ey  
adj. hors·i·er, hors·i·est
1. Of, relating to, or resembling horses or a horse.

2. Devoted to horses and horsemanship: the horsy set.

3.
, laid-back community can enjoy mostly well-prepared, generously portioned, relatively inexpensive meals, some with an obvious Asian-Filipino accent, in the tree- shaded Shadow Hills patio cafe on a winding part of Sunland Boulevard.

Leisurely lunchers may prefer one of the numerous sandwich or salad options priced no higher than $7.

But if a more substantial meal is in order, entree plates (also available at lunch time) try the tasty traditional Filipino adobo a·do·bo  
n. pl. a·do·bos
A Philippine dish of marinated meat or fish seasoned with garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, and spices.



[Spanish, from Old Spanish adobar, to stew
 (chicken or pork) offerings - I like the pork best - a hearty, well-seasoned recipe with a double heaping of steamed rice plus nicely arranged sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, priced at only $6.99.

Soups du jour du jour  
adj.
1. Prepared for a given day: The soup du jour is cream of potato.

2. Most recent; current: the trend du jour.
 here (cup $2.50, bowl $3.50) are passable pass·a·ble  
adj.
1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road.

2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency.

3.
 renditions. Both minestrone and clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière  offerings have satisfied on balmy evenings.

From the short dinner entree list of five items, three have been tried. Unquestionably un·ques·tion·a·ble  
adj.
Beyond question or doubt. See Synonyms at authentic.



un·question·a·bil
 superior to the others is the scallops dish ($12.99).

Fairly large size scallops, soft and sweet, many more of them than expected, arrive in all their splendor, cooked gently in a lemon-butter sauce.

As with all main entrees, they come with two side options: potatoes (mashed or fries), steamed rice, steamed fresh broccoli or peas and carrots. Broccoli and rice are suggested.

However, for an additional 99 cents, chubby, puffy onion rings can be had as an alternative side. And yes, they're worth the extra buck if they pair well with the main ingredient.

What I didn't like much here was the large piece of grilled salmon ($12.99) one evening. It was much too dry, though handsomely capped with finely chopped macadamia macadamia (măk'ədā`mēə), name for the nut of the Macadamia ternifolia, an evergreen tree native to Australia, but cultivated in Hawaii. The nuts, also called Queensland nuts, are eaten roasted or raw.  nuts and garlic.

On the other hand, the house rib eye steak The rib eye or ribeye, also known as the Scotch fillet (Australia) is a beef steak from the beef rib. When cut into steaks, the ribeye is one of the most popular, juiciest, and expensive steaks on the market.  ($13.99), which takes up a major part of the plate it's delivered on, was exactly the opposite one time, definitely juicy and quite flavorful.

One day there was an impressive pork dish ($9.99) presented here as a blackboard special.

The pork loin loin (loin) the part of the back between the thorax and pelvis.

loin
n.
The part of the body on either side of the spinal column between the ribs and the pelvis.
 emerged bread-crumb-crusted, slant-cut in strips with cabbage salad and a side of California roll The California roll is a maki-zushi (roll), a kind of sushi, usually made inside-out, containing cucumber, imitation crab stick, and avocado. Sometimes crab salad is substituted for the crab stick, and often the outer layer of rice (in an inside-out roll) is sprinkled with toasted . Very satisfying.

And yes, the Shadow Hills Cafe also does sushi rolls ($6.99 to $10.99), 12 of them.

But meal-takers here should remember to leave room for dessert.

There's usually a very good, freshly house-baked, apple crumble-like version of apple pie ($2.99). Also delectable are crispy spring rolls stuffed with banana that are listed as banana fritters ($3.99).

Shadow Hills Cafe is a relaxing, casual place. Just don't expect to eat in a dining room here.

That's because there isn't one.

Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

SHADOW HILLS CAFE

Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three stars

Where: 9695 Sunland Blvd., Shadow Hills.

Hours: Open for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks from 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Recommended items: Greek salad, pork adobo, lemon butter scallops, rib eye steak, apple pie, banana fritters.

How much: Starters from $2.50 to $8, pastas and entrees from $7 to $14, desserts $3 and $4. No alcohol. All major credit cards accepted.

Reservations: Helpful. Call (818) 352-0041.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) Owner Cynthia Tongko, above, invites you to try outdoor dining at Shadow Hills Cafe, where the fare includes Asian-influenced dishes such as Teriyaki ter·i·ya·ki  
n.
A Japanese dish of grilled or broiled slices of marinated meat or shellfish.



[Japanese : teri, glaze + yaki, to broil.]

Noun 1.
 Chicken and Rainbow Roll, left.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News
COPYRIGHT 2004 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2004, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Article Type:Review
Date:Aug 27, 2004
Words:643
Previous Article:FANCY SOME FISH AND CHIPS, GUV?(U)(Review)
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