3 sisters.

"... and so the GIANT turkey flew over their HEADS, and that is how our ancestors got BLUE CORN."

LIKE MANY NATIVE AMERICAN MYTHS, THIS ACCOUNT OF a natural phenomenon seems somewhat farfetched. There is one myth, however, that is based on sound nutritional principles. It speaks of three sister spirits--sibling goddesses that could never bear to be separated. Each sister symbolized and protected one of the three sacred crops of the Native Americans: corn, beans, and squash. So that their spirits would always remain inseparable, the three sisters were planted, cooked, and consumed together.

Many tribes have their own legend about the origin of the three sisters. An Iroquois folktale claims that they were the daughters of the Corn Mother, who, in turn, was the daughter of the Sky Woman, the creator of everything that grows on the Earth. Another Mexican tribal myth states that the Aztec god, Quetzalcoatl, changed himself into an ant and traveled to "Sustenance Mountain" to retrieve the divine harvest. According to a third legend, there were once three sisters who argued constantly. When an old woman overheard their bickering, she brought them to her garden so they could see how the corn, beans, and squash supported each other while growing. From that day on, the three sisters became inseparable.

Regardless of which mythological version one prefers, no one disputes that three sister crops provided the basis for the entire Native American diet. Using their brilliant ingenuity and deep respect for the land, the Native Americans were able to create one of the most efficient farming systems in history.

SISTER ACT

As a matter of fact, there probably would be no food and, as a result, no people in all of the Americas if not for the three sisters. Because they were immeasurably important to the Native Americans, the three sisters--also know as the Indian Triad--were given the name Dyonheyko, meaning, "Ones that sustain our lives." They provided complete nutrition for the Native Americans, and these three ingredients are much more beneficial when cooked and eaten together rather than individually: they allow the body to manufacture complete proteins and eliminate the need for meat in the diet. In addition, when grown together, they produce a higher yield on smaller plots of land and need less water and fertilizer

The Native American practice of growing the three sisters together is one of the first recorded cases of what is now called companion planting or "intercropping." Corn, beans, and squash complement each other when planted in the same plot of land. The strong stalks of the corn act as a trellis to support the beans, which are planted directly below. In turn, bacteria that grow on the beans convert nitrogen from the air into a plant-usable form. The nitrogen is released into the soil, creating natural fertilizer for the corn and squash. These bacteria feed on sugar secreted from the corn's roots, further strengthening the relationship. The wide leaves of the squash vines, planted between the rows of corn, shade the soil, allowing it to retain moisture; the leaves also inhibit the growth of weeds. These three crops, just as the sister spirits that represent them, truly thrive only when intertwined. In fact, planting these crops together can yield up to twenty percent more product with less watering and tending. This Native American method of companion cropping was much more advanced than any method employed by the Europeans at the time.

IF YOU WERE STRANDED ON A DESERT ISLAND AND COULD BRING ONLY THREE THINGS ...

The sister goddesses yearn to be together not only in the fields, but in the stomach as well. Corn, beans, and squash contain complementary amino acids that, when consumed together, form complete proteins. This phenomena, quite simply, is a vegan's dream. Eating all three foods as a unit allowed Native Americans to maintain proper health without eating any meat at all. In fact, only the addition of vitamin C is needed for a fully balanced diet. Theoretically, one could live an entire lifetime eating nothing else but these three staples.

The comparatively impeccable health of pre-colonial Native Americans can be partially attributed to their balanced diet based on the triad. Also, they had no need to raise animals for food, which kept them free of the diseases they bore. Less meat also meant less fat, which allowed them to stay more physically fit. Stable communities were founded on corn, beans, and squash. Emphasis was moved from hunting and foraging to farming, allowing permanent villages to flourish. The farmers could raise more food while cultivating less land, which fed the population with efficiency on par with modern agricultural techniques. The three sisters were a truly revolutionary discovery that benefited both people and the planet; they fed the population and eliminated the need to kill as many animals.

SEVEN'S A CROWD

In order to maximize their agricultural and nutritional benefits, the three sisters have welcomed other elements into their family. In the Southwestern United States--around New Mexico, in particular--farmers grow a so-called fourth sister, the rocky mountain bee plant. This plant grows together with the three original sisters and further strengthens their growth patterns. With its sweet flowers, the fourth sister attracts bees, hence its name. These bees pollinate the beans and squash, ensuring their survival for the next generation. Not only are the seedpods of the bee plant edible when cooked, hut also the plant itself is used to create the signature black coloring used in the pottery of the Anasazi Indians.

Another triad deviation exists in Mexico called the siete guerreros, or seven warriors. This food grouping includes corn, beans, and squash, but is also enriched by the addition of chilies, cactus, maguey, and amaranth. The chilies add vitamin C, completing a balanced diet, and the cactus, maguey, and amaranth contribute additional vitamins and minerals. This combination actually adds to the nutritional content of the triad. The seven warriors are eaten together; however, they are planted and grown separately.

A GIFT PROM THE NATIVES

The culinary profile of pre colonial America would have been virtually non-existent if not for the three sisters' influence. The triad presented a major advantage that made more advanced cuisine possible. All three ingredients could easily be dried and stored for future use. This meant that the Native Americans were no longer ruled by the seasons when planning their food supply. Either fresh or dried, the three sisters were available all year round.

Many of the most influential Native American and Mexican dishes were developed around the three sisters. Among the countless uses for corn, whole dried kernels were the main ingredient for posole, a traditional stew. Corn was also partially processed with slaked lime, then ground and dried to make the staple ingredient masa harina. When mixed with water and cooked, a culinary breakthrough, the tortilla, was created, revolutionizing Mexican cuisine and forming the basis for such dishes as burritos and tostados, as well as modern Southwest favorites like tacos and quesadillas. Masa was also wrapped in cornhusks and steamed to make tamales. Beans, in addition to being boiled tot stews, built the foundation for borracho (drunken) beans, which were stewed in beer. Refried beans, another classic, were actually not fried twice. The name comes from the Spanish word refritos, meaning well fried. Although squash was also eaten in many forms, the flesh of some early squash varieties was too bitter to cat, so instead the seeds were eaten and the shells were dried for ceremonial rattles. The vast influence of the three sisters elevated Native American food from a simple stomach filler to true cuisine.

AMERICAN WOMEN

The Native Americans were not the only ones to benefit from the gift of the three sisters. When European settlers first set up colonies in New England, the Indian triad played a major role in their survival. Without corn, beans, and squash, the colonists would not have recieved the proper nourishment needed in their diet. To take advantage of the sisters' high nutrient content, colonial Americans created an entirely new cuisine based on these regional ingredients, and based many of their cooking techniques on those taught to them by the Native Americans. As America expanded, so did American regional food--creating new and unique three sisters' dishes all over the United States. Corn formed the basis for corn chowder, corn on the cob, and Johnny cakes (corn griddle cakes) in New England. Southerners added their own slant with cornbread and grits. Southwest cuisine started as a spin off of Mexican food, much of which utilized the three sisters. This local ingredient even found its way as far as Europe in the form of Italian polenta. In the Northeast, beans were stewed with maple syrup and bacon to make classic Boston baked beans, which are actually a variation on a Native American bean dish stewed with venison. Brothy beans, another American favorite, also feature this sacred sister. In addition, the highly versatile squash is eaten baked, fried, and glazed all over the United States. It is also often pureed in soups.

The pinnacle of triad cookery--and the greatest way to enjoy the sisters' health benefits--is to combine all three ingredients in one dish. Stemming from the Native American dish m'i sicquotach, plain old down-home succotash keeps the siblings as close as they can be.

THIS LEGEND TELLS OF THREE SACRED GODDESSES, DESTINED TO REMAIN IN INTERTWINED. THIS, HOWEVER, IS FAR more than a myth. If these sisters were not celebrated as one, early America could not have maintained a healthy and steady food supply and most likely would have found itself without a population. The three sisters sustained America in a way no other food source could; they truly form the most perfect of trinities. So, where's your mirepoix now?

"I JUST LOVED TO COOK AS A KID. POOP WAS ALWAYS a big deal in my house--it was never a secondary thing," recalls Cafe Annie's chef-owner, Robert Del Grande. Reminiscing about his food beginnings, Chef Del Grande goes on to elaborate: "The first meal I ever cooked when I was younger was pancakes. I would look at the batter and the end result and think, 'Wow, you start with this and end up with that.' And then with that you get access to maple syrup--it didn't get any better than that! I went to college and graduate school for science. But, in the meantime, I had gone out to a few good restaurants and thought, 'Man, this is what it's all about--this is it!' I moved to Houston and actually started Cafe Annie just for fun and here we still are, twenty-two years later."

Executive Chef and part owner Ben Berryhill's initial food experience is somewhat similar to Chef Del Grande's, but his path took a bit era different route than he expected: "I was really fortunate in that my grandparents lived on a working farm in East Texas and so I spent a lot of time there--my other cousins would he outside running around and I'd be in the kitchen cooking with my grandmother. Lunch was a huge production. Whether we were five or fifteen, the lunch table was always packed with a variety of foods--all wonderful, fresh things. I guess it was while I was in high school that I figured out that you needed money to do things. So, I went to work in kitchens--washing dishes to start. And then it begins. You start washing potatoes, then cutting them, then frying them, and so on. Things just progress from there. I went to culinary school to learn how to be a restrauteur--not really to be a chef. But then I started working at Care Annie with Robert about eleven years ago. I always said I'd move on when I stopped learning, but that hasn't happened yet."

When asked whether chefs are truly "artists," Chefs Del Grande and Berryhill share similar opinions, yet each has a distinct view of what the end result should be. For Del Grande, "There's something to being a part of the make up rather than simply standing by and being a casual observer. You want to be a cook or a chef because there's a stronger connection involved. You look at the end result and realize that you've produced it and are somehow connected to it. All the arts pretty much say who you are, and with cooking, it definitely should remain a bit more on the conservative side. The difference between the other arts and food is--you can turn yours eyes away from a painting or close your ears to music but you're pretty much going to eat the Good that's put in front of you." Berryhill echoes those sentiments but also adds, "I think as a chef, first of all, you have to be a great craftsperson and I also think art can certainly be a part of your interpretation. Usually, for me, it's more about the skill and the craft. But certainly, cooking can be a very artistic expression of yourself."

And, on the subject of the day-in, day-out goings on in a busy kitchen, Chef Del Grande's thoughts are ultimately positive: "The good news is that if you have a bad day or night, you know that day will eventually end and there will be a tomorrow. I always liked that about the business--when dinner is over, you can clean up, go home, and know that the next day you can start fresh. At the same time, there's no SuperBowl[TM] ring waiting for you at the end of the shift--you may have just had the hest night ever and then it ends.

With Chef Berryhill, his train of thought in the trenches is extremely grounded--it's all about perceived attitude and realizing your strengths: "When things aren't going as well as expected and you're not really sure what to do--just do what you know how to do really well--that's what I try to focus on when things are not going as planned or how I envisioned. And, usually, when you get that kind of perspective--that's when things get back on track."

AS THE CHEF OF THE RESTAURANT AT THE MANSION ON TURTLE Creek for the past eighteen years, Dean Fearing still has as much spice as his food. Yet despite his lengthy tenure, Fearing maintains his commitment to constant innovation and change: "I feel that I've always had a good outlook on what we've needed to do here ... as far as moving forward and keeping things fresh and exciting. So when people cat here, it's not viewed as an old-style restaurant that used to be great. It's very challenging, but it's also the exciting part about my position. It's being able to drive cuisine to the forefront and keep up with the times."

In fact, when the Mansion opened, Southwestern cuisine was still very new to the food world. Throughout the years, however, it has become wildly popular, with Fearing helping to pave the way. "It's a totally different experience. But you have to like spice; you have to be adventurous ... it's not French food, at the least. That's what I love about Texans; everybody in Texas loves Mexican food, so there's no way you're not going to like the Mansion's food if you love Mexican food," says Fearing.

The menu changes weekly, which gives Fearing much opportunity to be creative: "It's part of being a painter or artist. You're always creating new canvas ... we're always doing something new and it opens a lot of areas that normally wouldn't be opened if you were just doing a seasonal menu." He claims that his food doesn't have a set standard because he is always changing the menu. Fearing seems very content at the Mansion, and when asked if he could sec himself staying there for the rest of his life, his answer is simply, "Possibly; they like me and I like them."

BOASTING OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY CUISINE, CHEF TOM KERPON'S MENU AT THE INN of the Anasazi offers a good mix of Native American, Mexican, and dare we say it, American Cowboy fare. Thanks to the intimate fusion of these cultures, all it takes is the imagination and creativity of someone like Chef Kerpon to integrate all three styles into one cohesive menu. His passion for the career he's carefully chosen is self-evident: "I actually have a degree in historical studies and initially spent some time teaching, but my genesis was that I knew an Executive Chef in a nice hotel in Dallas. I told him that I'd do anything to get into the business, and he took me at my word. I went into the restaurant and started by learning banquet prep and from there, I just kept learning and moving up through the ranks. It may sound a bit trite, but I still love to cook. I don't get to do it as often as I would like, but when the occasion arises where we're short handed on the line I love to get back there--it's fun. It's also fun when a customer asks to see you and asks for more of the food that you just served them. I think that's the best compliment a chef can get."

Realizing the importance of working for other talented chefs along the way, Chef Kerpon knows just how fortunate he was having "some good sous chef", pastry chefs, and supervisors that would take their time to show me how to do things right." And, although not culinary-school trained, Chef Kerpon learned all he needed to know while on the job. He's taken this training and life experience and used it to his advantage in his own kitchen: "After being here at the Inn for four years, the challenging part of what I do now is to continually build a talented team who have their own ideas. I like to challenge my staff to come up with dishes and recipes that I can incorporate into the menu. It works well because many of them have worked with me for a certain period of time and know what I expect from them. They strive to make a dish that I would approve of. I trust these guys and they trust me--they know what I'm looking for. They'll throw dishes at me, and we'll run them as specials to see how they fly. It's always enjoyable to see what these guys are thinking about, plus it gives everyone a sense of ownership--they get a little taste of what it's like. Ultimately, though, it's my name that's on the bottom of the menu, so it's important that we're all on the same track."

AFTER, SIX YEARS AS EXECUTIVE CHEF UP THE ELDORADO HOTEL IN SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO, CHEF Martin Rios decided it was time to make a few of his culinary dreams become realities. His first goal was to garner a formal education at The Culinary Institute of America--one he easily achieved in 1996. His second was to work for a pair of well-respected chefs in New York City. A stint at the highly acclaimed Park Avenue Cafe with David Burke and Daniel Budd fit that particular bill. His third act involved time spent working with Michelin Three Star Chef Georges Blanc in Vonnas, France as well as World Pastry Champion Jean Marc Guillot. Finally returning to Santa Fe in the spring of 1997, Rios accepted the position of Executive Chef at The Old House Restaurant--which is, oddly enough, the line dining restaurant that resides within his old stomping grounds at The Eldorado Hotel. Armed with an arsenal of experience and a refined sense of taste, Chef Rios continues his successful food run and offers a cuisine that embodies both Southwestern and Asian influences combined with classical French techniques.

His philosophy about food aptly reflects his time spent working in France: "I focus on flavors--I want the ingredients to speak for themselves. I'm not a fan of hiding flavors with heavy sauces or using too many herbs or seasonings. I think this type of cooking singles me out from nay other colleagues here in Santa Fe. This train of thought was pretty much drilled into my head while working in France and has continued to stick with me throughout nay career. Learning about and respecting ingredients--I've brought it to my food. I want diners to taste every single ingredient, not just the dish as a whole."

Consistently striving to please his guests, Chef Rios is acutely aware of just how important it is to ensure the best possible dining experience for each and every patron: "I often get concerned about the people eating my thud and wonder if at times I go too far. But when I see the plates come back to the kitchen empty and hear such positive comments about the food from the diners--I realize that I have nothing to worry about. Diner's today are definitely a bit more adventurous if you give them thud that showcases great flavors and solid foundations. Their positive feed back is what makes me happiest. I can go home knowing that I've done a good job that day."

Roasted Shrimp with Caramelized Zucchini and Cilantro-Lime Butter

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the cilantro-lime butter:
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 serrano chili, stemmed, seeded
  and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
1/2 table lime juice
4 tablespoons butter, melted

For the zucchini:
1 red onion, peeled and sliced into rings
8 baby zucchini, halved
Olive oil as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the shrimp:
1 pound large shrimp, shell-on

For the garnish:
Micro greens
Coarse salt

directions

For the cilantro-lime butter: In a small saucepan, add the garlic with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer. Cook until soft, about 30 minutes. Drain the garlic and let cool. Mash the garlic and place into a bowl with the chili, cilantro, lime juice, and butter. Mix to combine and set aside, keeping warm.

For the zucchini: Place a medium saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the onion and caramelize; season with salt and pepper. Remove from the pan and set aside, keeping warm. Brush the zucchini with olive oil and place into the same saute pan; season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender; remove from the heat and return the onions to the pan. Set aside keep! Warm.

For the shrimp: Butterfly the shrimp and devein. Brush the shrimp with the cilantro-lime butter; place under a broiler and cook to desired doneness. Reserve the remaining butter for garnish.

To serve: On a dinner plate, arrange four slices of zucchini and top with the onion rings. Place the shrimp over the onion rings and drizzle the cilantro-lime butter over the shrimp and zucchini. Garnish with the micro greens and coarse salt.

Gruner Veltliner "Rotes Tor" Federspiel

Hirtzberger

Wachau, Australia

robert DEL GRANDE

Sea Scallops with Texas Cornbread Dressing

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the cornbread:
2 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 3/4 ounces yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1 egg
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup melted butter

For the dressing:
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup fresh corn kernels, cut from cob
1/2 small onion, peeled and Finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 rib celery, finely chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 pound ground venison sausage
1 poblano chili, charred, peeled
  seeded, and chopped
Reserved cornbread pieces
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup chicken broth
Salt and pepper to taste

For the smoked chili sauce:
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons buttermilk
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 tablespoon walnut oil
1 chipotle pepper, pureed
1/2 teaspoons lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallops:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large sea scallops
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Peppercress
Coarse salt

directions

For the cornbread: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda and mix well. In a separate bowl, combine the egg, buttermilk, and melted butter and mix until combined. Add the egg mixture to the dry mixture and mix until combined. Do not over mix. Pour the batter into a small greased baking dish. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Set aside to cool and break into small pieces.

For the dressing: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the corn and cook for five minutes. Add the onion, garlic, celery, and carrot and cook for five minutes. Add the sausage and cook for an additional five minutes. Add the chili, cornbread pieces, oregano and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle the chicken broth over the mixture and lightly toss. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the smoked chili sauce: In a bowl, add all of the ingredients and mix to combine.

For the scallops: Place a medium saute pan over high heat and add the oil. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and place in the saute pan. Sear each side and cook to desired aloneness. Cut each scallop in half.

To serve: On a dinner plate, spoon the cornbread dressing into a 2-inch ring mold. Arrange scallop halves on the dressing and drizzle with the smoked chili sauce. Garnish with the peppercress and coarse salt.

Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken

Josef Leitz

Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels, Rheingau, Germany 2001

robert DEL GRANDE

Roasted Lobster with Sweet Corn Pudding

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the corn pudding:
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped
6 ears corn, peeled and grated
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the chili butter:
1 ancho chili stemmed, seeded, and toasted
1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup heavy cream
Lime juice to taste
4 ounces butter, softened
Lobster roe as needed
Salt to taste

For the lobster:
2 2-pound Maine lobster tails only, poached
Melted butter as needed
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
4 cornhusks, tied to resemble a tamale
4 corn shoots
Cascabel chili powder

directions

For the corn pudding: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the corn and cook until slightly thickened. Add the cream and salt and set aside, keeping warm.

For the chili butter: Soak the ancho chili in warm water for 20 minutes and drain. Place a small saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook until caramelized. Remove from the heat; add the chili and mash into a paste. Add the cream and season with lime juice and salt. Mix until combined. Place over medium heat and whisk in the butter and lobster roe and set aside, keeping warm.

For the lobster: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Split the tails lengthwise; brush with melted butter and season with salt. Set the tails on a sheet tray and place hi the oven until heated through.

To serve: Place the cornhusk on a plate. Spoon the corn bread pudding on the cornhusk with the lobster next to the pudding and drizzle the chili butter over the lobster and on the plate. Garnish the plate with a corn shoot and cascabel chili powder.

Viognier

Yves Cuilleron

Rhone, France 2001

robert DEL GRANDE

Gulf Snapper with White Corn Tamale

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the tamales:
1/2 cup coarse white grits
1/2 cup masa
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 large banana leaf

For the sauce:
1/2 tablespoon butter
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 white corn tortilla, chopped
1 1/4 cups chicken stock
1 poblano chili, charred, peeled
  seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1/4 cup pumpkin seeds, toasted
1/4 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the fish:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 7-ounce fillets Gulf red
  snapper, skin-on
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
4 large banana leaves
Baby cilantro sprigs
Lime wedges
Coarse salt

directions

For the tamales: In a bowl, combine the grits, masa, and salt and mix well. In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the grits mixture until thoroughly combined. Stirring occassionally, cover the pan and allow mixture to cook until soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter. Pass the banana leaf over an open flame to make pliable. Cut the banana leaf into four 8-inch by 8-inch squares. Lay the banana leaf squares on a work surface and spoon two ounces of filling in the center of each square. Fold the leaf to form a tamale. Set aside, keeping warm

For the sauce: Place a large saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion and garlic and cook until translucent. Add the tortilla pieces and cook until golden brown. Add the stock and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool. Transfer to a blender and add the chili, cilantro, and pumpkin seeds and puree until smooth. Return the mixture to a saucepan and heat. Add the cream and salt and set aside, keeping warm.

For the fish: Place a non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Season the fillets with salt and pepper and place skin side down in the saute pan. Sear until brown and crispy; decrease the beat to medium and turn each fillet over. Cook until desired doneness.

To serve: Place a piece of banana leaf on a dinner plate. Unfold a tamale onto the new banana leaf. Spoon the sauce next to the tamale. Place the fillet, skin side up, in the sauce. Garnish with baby cilantro sprigs, a lime wedge, and coarse salt.

Chardonnay

Hanzell

Sonoma, California 1999

robert DEL GRANDE

Texas Buffalo with Queso Fresco Potatoes and Chorizo Avocado Nachos

(Serves 8)

ingredients

For the sauce:
1/2 cup canola oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 shallots, peeled and chopped
15 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 cup brandy
1 cup red wine
2 ancho chilies, toasted, stemmed,
  seeded, and chopped
2 New Mexican chilies, toasted,
  stemmed, seeded, and chopped
2 pasilla chilies, toasted, stemmed,
  seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 tomato, roasted and chopped
12 button mushroom stems
1 quart veal demi-glace
1/2 pound veal bones, roasted

To finish the sauce:
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large shallot, peeled
  and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
  and finely chopped
2 pasilla chilies, stemmed,
  seeded, and sliced into thin rings
2 tablespoons green
  peppercorns, crushed
12 button mushroom caps, chopped
1/4 cup brandy
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the asparagus:
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 bunches asparagus, trimmed,
  peeled, and steamed
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the corn sauce:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 1/2 cups fresh corn, cut from cobs
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
1 small jalapeno, seeded and chopped
1/4 cup chopped leeks
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 cup tequila
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 bunch cilantro, stemmed
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the potatoes:
3 pounds red bliss potatoes,
  cleaned and quartered
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
3 tomatillos, peeled and chopped
1 poblano pepper roasted,
  peeled, seeded, and chopped
Reserved corn sauce
3/4 pound queso fresco *
1 bunch cilantro, stemmed
  and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the black bean puree:
1 cup dried black beans
1 slice hickory smoked bacon,
  cooked and chopped
  (reserve drippings)
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 jalapeno pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the guacamole:
2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and chopped
1/4 small onion, peeled and
  finely chopped
1/2 tomato, finely chopped
1/2 jalapeno pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
1/2 tablespoon chopped cilantro
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

To finish the nachos:
8 large tortilla chips
Reserved black bean puree
Reserved guacamole
1/2 cup cooked chorizo sausage
1 cup grated jalapeno jack cheese

For the buffalo:
8 8-ounce buffalo tenderloin filets
1/4 cup canola oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Queso fresco
Cilantro, stemmed and chopped

* Available in Mexican markets.

directions

For the sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion and shallots and caramelize. Add the garlic, celery, and carrots and cook until tender. Deglaze the pan with brandy and red wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the chilies, fennel seeds, bay leaves, peppercorns, tomato, mushroom stems, demi-glace, and veal bones.

Simmer for two hours, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and strain through a china cap. Return the sauce to a small saucepan and simmer until reduced by one-quarter and strain through a fine mesh sieve.

To finish the sauce: Place a small saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Saute the shallots and garlic for one minute. Add the chilies and saute until the oil turns reddish, about 30 seconds. Add the peppercorns and mushrooms and saute until the mushrooms are cooked. Deglaze the pan with brandy and add to the sauce. Season with lime juice and salt. Set aside keeping warm.

For the asparagus: Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. Arrange one bunch of asparagus evenly in the skillet. Season with salt and pepper and brown. Add one tablespoon of butter and repeat with file second bunch. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the corn sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the corn, onion, jalapeno, leeks, cumin, and white pepper. Cook until the onion turns translucent. Deglaze the pan with tequila and reduce by half. Add the chicken stock and reduce by half. Remove the pan from the heat; add the cilantro and allow to steep for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain the sauce through a fine mesh sieve and season with lime juice and salt. Reserve for the potatoes.

For the potatoes: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, toss the potatoes with one quarter cup oil, salt, and pepper. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and cook in the oven until tender. Remove from the oven and set aside. Place a large skillet over medium heat and add the remaining oil. Add the onion and tomatillos and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the poblano and potatoes and stir until incorporated. Deglaze the pan with the corn sauce and mix to combine. Add the queso fresco and cook until melted, about three minutes. Season with the cilantro, salt, and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the black bean puree: In a medium saucepan, add the black beans, bacon, onion, garlic, jalapeno, and stock. Bring to a boil and simmer until the beans are tender and the liquid is reduced to just cover the beans, about one hour. Remove from the heat and cool. Transfer to a food processor fitted with a metal blade; pulse into a chunky paste. Season with lime juice and salt. Reserve for the nachos.

For the guacamole: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Mash with a fork until avocado is smooth. Season with lime juice and salt. Reserve for nachos.

To finish the nachos: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread a layer of black bean puree and guacamole on each drip. Place a portion of chorizo on each chip and enough cheese to cover. Place the nachos on a baking sheet and place into the oven. Cook until the cheese is melted, about seven minutes.

For the buffalo: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Season both sides of filets with salt and pepper. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Sear the filets on each side for four minutes. Place in the oven and finish cooking to desired doneness.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the potatoes in the center of the plate and arrange the asparagus to one side. Place the filet on top of both and the nacho on top of the asparagus. Drizzle the sauce to the side of the filet and garnish with the cornhusk, queso fresco, and cilantro.

Shiraz

D'Arenberg, The Dead Arm

McLaren Vale, South Australia 2000

dean FEARING

Sweet Corn Vichyssoise with Lobster Albondigas

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the vichyssoise:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from cobs
1 serrano chili, stemmed, seeded,
  and finely chopped
Pinch of cumin seeds
1 bunch cilantro, stemmed
1 quart chicken stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the albondigas:
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 white onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 Roma tomato, chopped
1 serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped
8 ounces lobster meat, cooked and chopped
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons sour cream
1/3 cup bread crumbs
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

directions

For the rich vichyssoise: Place a medium sauce an over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallot and onion and cook until translucent. Add the garlic, corn, chili, cumin, and cilantro. Cook for three minutes and add the stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree the soup until smooth. Strain through a line mesh sieve and add the cream. Add the pepper and season with lime juice and salt. Set aside in the refrigerator until chilled.

For the albondigas: Place a small saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion and carrot and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the garlic, tomato, chili, and cilantro. Cook for an additional three minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Add the lobster, mayonnaise, sour cream, bread crumbs. Season with lime juice and salt. Mix until combined and form 1-inch round balls.

To serve: Ladle the soup into a drilled martini glass: spear a lobster albondiga onto a martini pick and place in the martini glass.

Chardonnay

Antinori

Cervaro della Sala, Umbria, Italy 1999

dean FEARING

Antelope Filets with Roasted Yellow Tomato-Posole Stew

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the glaze:
1/2 tablespoon canola oil
2 red peppers, seeded and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoons annatto seeds *
1 cup honey
1/2 cup malt vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the stew:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1/4 cup gold tequila
1/2 cup beer
2 cups chicken stock
4 corn tortillas, fried
4 yellow tomatoes, roasted and pureed
Lime juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

To finish the stew:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup diced country ham
1/2 cup fresh corn, cut from cob
1 small red onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 rib celery, chopped
1 small jalapeno pepper, finely chopped
1/4 cup cooked posole
1/2 small yellow tomato, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the barbecue sauce:
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 jalapeno pepper,
  seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon mustard
1/4 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon paprika
3/4 teaspoon salt

For the fajitas:
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1 poblano pepper,
  seeded and sliced
1 red onion, peeled and sliced
1 6-ounce portion venison
  loin, cut into thin strips
1/2 cup barbecue sauce, reserved
1/4 cup grated jalapeno jack cheese
4 6-inch tortillas, warmed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the antelope:
1 tablespoon canola oil
4 6-ounce portions antelope filets
Reserved glaze
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Cotiga cheese, grated *
4 Avocado fans **

* Available in Mexican markets.

** Available through The Chefs
Garden at [phone].

directions

For the glaze: Place a small saute pan over medium heat and acid the oil. Add the peppers, onion, garlic, and annatto seeds and saute until the onion turns translucent. Add the honey and malt vinegar and reduce by half. Transfer to a blender and puree the mixture until smooth. Season with salt and pepper; reserve for the antelope.

For the stew: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the pepper, onion, and celery and saute until the onion turns translucent. Add the garlic, jalapeno, cumin, and coriander and saute for one minute. Deglaze the pan with tequila and beer and reduce by half. Acid the chicken stock, tortillas, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the mixture has thickened, about 20 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with lime juice, salt, and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the stew: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the ham and brown well. Add the corn, onion, celery, and jalapeno and saute until the onion turns translucent. Add the posole and tomatoes and cook until heated through. Add the stew and mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

For the barbecue sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the honey, mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, water, paprika, and salt. Bring to a boil; reduce the Heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Reserve for the fajitas.

For the fajitas: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the poblano pepper and onion and saute for one minute. Season the venison with salt and pepper and sear both sides in pan. Place into the oven and cook until desired doneness. Remove from the oven; add the barbecue sauce and stir in the cheese until incorporated into the sauce. Spoon the fajita mixture into the center of each tortilla and roll into a cylinder.

For the antelope: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a large saute pan over medium high heat and add the oil. Season the filets with salt and pepper and sear the filets on both sides. Place filets into the oven and cook until desired doneness. Brush the glaze over each filet one minute before cooking is through. Remove from the heat and slice each filet in half.

To serve: Place the stew in a large bowl. Arrange the two pieces of filet on top of the stew and rest the fajita alongside the antelope.

Shiraz

Jim Barry "The Armagh"

Clare Valley South Australia 1999

dean FEARING

Pueblo Corn-Crusted Halibut Crabmeat Hash

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the crabmeat hash:
2 1/4 cups milk
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 cups grated sharp white
  cheddar cheese
Juice of 3/4 lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 1/2 small onion, peeled
  and chopped
4 sprigs thyme, stemmed
  and chopped
1 1/2 cups diced potatoes. fried
3/4 cup lump crabmeat,
  shelled and picked
Salt and pepper to taste

For the coconut corn glaze:
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 ears corn
1 cup coconut milk
1 small shallot, peeled
  and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and
  finely chopped
1-inch piece gingerroot,
  peeled and finely chopped
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the tangerine sauce:
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 shallots, peeled and
  finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
  and finely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded
  and finely chopped
3 cups fresh tangerine juice
1-inch piece gingerroot,
  peeled and finely chopped
1 ancho chill stemmed
  and seeded
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon water
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

For the halibut fillets:
6 6-ounce halibut fillets, trimmed
Reserved coconut corn glaze
1/2 cup dried and ground Pueblo corn *
2 tablespoons canola oil
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
1/2 cup diced mango
1/2 cup diced red pepper
1/2 cup peeled and diced jicama
1 jalapeno pepper, roasted,
  stemmed, seeded, and diced
Lime slices
Cilantro sprigs

* Available in Mexican markets.

directions

For the crabmeat hash: In a medium saucepan, add the milk and bring to a boil. In a bowl, add the cornstarch and water and whisk to form a slurry. Gradually add the slurry to the hot milk, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat; maintain at a simmer and cook for five minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and gradually add the cheddar cheese, whisking constantly until thoroughly combined. Add the lemon juice and salt and mix to combine. Set aside, keeping warm. Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the celery and cook for three minutes. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the thyme, potatoes, and cheddar cheese mixture and mix to combine. Add the crabmeat and season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the coconut corn glaze: Cut the corn off the cob and scrape it with the back of a chef's knife to extract the juices. Place a medium saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the corn and juices, coconut milk, shallot, garlic, and gingerroot. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring often. The glaze should be the consistency of pudding. Season with lime juice and salt. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the tangerine sauce: Place a medium saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallots, garlic, and jalapeno and saute for one minute. Add the tangerine juice, gingerroot, and ancho chili and bring to a boil. In a small bowl, add the cornstarch and water to form a slurry. Gradually add the slurry in the hot tangerine juice mixture, whisking constantly. Cook until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, about two minutes. Discard the ancho chili and season with the lime juice and salt. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the halibut fillets: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Season the fillets with salt. Spread each of the fillets with a thin layer of the coconut corn glaze. Place the ground Pueblo corn in a bowl. Place one side of each fillet in the ground corn to coat well. Place a large non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the fillets, ground corn side down in the pan, and saute until golden brown. Turn each fillet over; transfer to the oven and cook to desired doneness. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the crabmeat hash into the center of a bowl. Place a halibut fillet on top of the hash. Spoon a portion of the tangerine sauce around the hash and garnish with the mango, red pepper, jicama, jalapeno, lime slice, and cilantro sprig.

Chardonnay

Pahlmeyer

Napa, California 2000

dean FEARING

Bock Beer Relleno Shrimp with Black Bean Truffle Sauce

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the pie dough:
7 ounces all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 tablespoon granulated sugar
5 ounces butter, diced
2 tablespoons ice water

For the buttercup squash tarts:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 buttercup squash, peeled,
  seeded, and chopped
2 cups chicken stock
Juice of 1 lime
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Salt to taste

For the black bean truffle sauce:
2 cups black beans
1 1/2 pints water
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
1 serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 ounce black truffle, chopped
Salt to taste


For the salad:
6 zucchini, thinly sliced
  lengthwise
Olive oil as needed
1/4 head frisee
4 squash blossoms
1 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the shrimp:
1 cup bock beer
1 egg
1 tablespoon unsalted
  butter, melted
1 tablespoon heavy cream
Juice of 1/2 lime
8 ounces all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 shrimp, 16-20 count,
  peeled and deveined
Salt to taste

For the squash blossoms:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups cold water
Juice of 1/2 lemon
4 squash blossoms
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Chives

directions

For the pie dough: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer, add the flour, salt, sugar, and butter. Mix until the consistency resembles coarse meal. Add the water and mix until the dough comes together. Form the dough into a disk; wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate lot two hours. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pie dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut the dough into four 3-inch circles and place in a 2-inch tart shell. Prick the surface with a fork. Line the inside of the shell with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans. Place in the oven and blind bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the buttercup squash tarts: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the butter. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the squash and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until soft, about 30 minutes. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add the squash mixture, lime juice, nutmeg, and salt and puree until smooth. Divide the squash mixture evenly among the tart shells: place the tarts under a broiler and cook until the top of the mixture is lightly browned.

For the black bean truffle sauce: In a small saucepan, add the black beans and water and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the black beans with a fine mesh sieve and save the liquid. Save the black beans for another use. Place a separate small saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallot, chili, garlic, and truffle and cook until the shallot turns translucent. Add the black bean liquid and reduce to one-half cup. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season with salt. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the salad: Prepare a grill Brush the zucchini slices with oil and season with salt. Place the slices on the grill and cook on both sides until desired doneness. In a bowl, add the zucchini, frisee, and squash blossoms. Drizzle with the vinegar, olive oil, and lemon juice and toss to coat. Season with the salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the shrimp: Preheat the deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, add the beer, egg, butter, heavy cream, and lime juice and mix thoroughly to combine. Add the flour, baking powder, cumin, and salt and mix thoroughly to combine. Place the batter in the refrigerator and allow to rest for fifteen minutes. Dip the shrimp in the batter and place in the oil. Deep-fry until golden brown. Place the shrimp on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain and season with salt.

For the squash blossoms: Preheat the deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, add one cup of the flour. Slowly whisk in the cold water to form a thin batter. Add the lemon juice and salt and mix to combine. In a separate bowl, add the remaining flour. Dredge the squash blossoms in the flour, shaking off the excess. Dip the squash blossoms in the batter and place in the oil. Deep fry until golden brown. Place the squash blossoms on a paper towel lined sheet pan to drain and season with salt.

To serve: Place a buttercup squash tart on a plate with a serving of salad next to the tart. Place three shrimp and a squash blossom next to the salad. Drizzle the plate with the black bean truffle sauce and garnish the shrimp with chives.

Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs, Walker Station Vineyard

Sonoma, California 1999

dean FEARING

Sweet Potato Pie with Caramel Corn Ice Cream and Cherry Sauce

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the caramel corn ice cream:
2 teaspoons butter
4 cups fresh corn kernels, cut from cobs
1 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 cup bourbon
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
7 ounces brown sugar
10 large egg yolks

For the sweet potato pie filling:
Butter as needed
4 cups peeled and diced
  sweet potatoes
3 1/2 ounces brown sugar
1 teaspoon malt vinegar
1 teaspoon pumpkin spice

For pie dough:
7 ounces all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 tablespoon granulated sugar
5 ounces butter, cubed
2 tablespoons ice water
Egg wash as needed
Oil as needed

For the cherry sauce:
2 cups cherry puree
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon arrowroot
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon lemon juice

directions

For the caramel corn ice cream: Place a medium saute pan over medium-high heat and add the butter and two cups of the corn kernels. Saute. the corn kernels until they start to caramelize. Push the corn kernels to the side of the pan; add the sugar and allow the sugar to caramelize. Stir the remaining two cups of corn kernels into the sugar. Deglaze with the bourbon; add the milk and cream and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for five minutes. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot corn mixture into the egg yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolk mixture into the hot corn mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh, sieve. Set over an ice bath until chilled and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturers instructions.

For the sweet potato pie filling: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter the surface of a roasting pan and add the sweet potatoes. Place in the oven and bake until the potatoes are tender and caramelized for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. In a bowl, combine the brown sugar and vinegar. Remove the potatoes from the oven and top with the brown sugar mixture. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the potato mixture is thoroughly caramelized. Remove from the oven; add the pumpkin spice and mash Set aside to cool.

For the pie dough: In the howl of an electric mixer with the paddle attachment, add the flour, salt, sugar, and butter. Mix until the consistency of coarse meal. Add the water and mix until the dough comes together. Form the dough into a disk; wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pie dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 6-inch round cutter, cut the pie dough into six circles. Place one-quarter cup of sweet potato pie filling in the center of each dough circle and brush the edges of the dough circles with egg wash. Fold the dough circles in half and press the edges to enclose. Fill a large saute pan with two inches of oil and bring to 350 degrees. Place each sweet potato pie in the oil and fry until golden brown on each side. Place the sweet potato pies on a paper towel lined sheet pan to drain.

For the cherry sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium-high heat and add the cherry puree and sugar and bring to a boil. In a bowl, combine the arrowroot and water to form a slurry. Add the slurry to the cherry puree mixture, whisking constantly, and cook until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Slice a sweet potato pie in half and place in the center of a plate. Top with a small scoop of the caramel corn ice cream and spoon a portion of the cherry sauce around the sweet potato pie.

Semillon

Chalk Hill Botrytized Estate Vineyard Selection

Sonoma, California 1994

dean FEARING

Cajeta Cheesecake with Black Bean Tuiles

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the cheesecake:
1 pound cream cheese
5 ounces granulated sugar
2 tablespoons sour cream
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 eggs
1/2 cup cajeta syrup *

For the black bean essence:
1 cup black beans
Water as needed

For the black bean tuiles:
4 ounces butter, diced
3 tablespoons honey
1/2 cup egg whites
Reserved 1/4 cup black bean essence
5 ounces flour
4 1/2 ounces Confectioners' sugar

For the orange passion fruit coulis:
1/2 cup passion fruit juice
1 quart orange juice
3 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
2 tablespoons candied orange zest
1/2 tablespoon arrowroot
1 tablespoon water

For the garnish:
Guava jelly cubes
Caramel sugar rings

* Cajeta is a thick, dark, syrup or paste
made from caramelized sugar and goat's
milk. Available in Mexican markets.

directions

For the cheesecake: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the cream cheese and mix on low speed just until smooth. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl frequently while mixing. Gradually add the sugar, sour cream, heavy cream, and eggs. Add the cajeta syrup and mix until thoroughly combined. Pour the cheesecake batter into a 10-inch prepared cake pan. Place the cake pan in a hotel pan and add enough hot water to the pan to reach about halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Place in the oven and bake until the cheesecake is firm in the center, about one hour. Remove from the water bath and let cool. Place in the refrigerator overnight.

For the black bean essence: In a small saucepan, add the beans and cover with three inches of water. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and cook for 30 minutes. Strain the black bean essence into a small saucepan with a fine mesh sieve and reduce to one-quarter cup. Reserve for the black bean tuiles. Save the black beans for another use.

For the black bean tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and honey and beat on high speed until smooth and creamy, about three minutes. Add the egg whites and black bean essence and mix until combined. Gradually add the flour and Confectioners' sugar, scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Remove the bowl from the mixer and spread the batter into forty 3-inch in diameter disks. Place in the oven and bake until crisp. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the orange passion fruit coulis: Place a medium saucepan over medium-high heat; add the passion fruit juice, orange juice, and sugar. Reduce the mixture to three cups and add the candied orange zest. In a howl, combine the arrowroot and water to form a slurry. Add the slurry to the mixture, whisking constantly, and cook until slightly thickened. Set aside to cool.

To finish the cheesecakes: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the cheesecake and mix until smooth. Transfer the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch round tip. Set aside four black bean tuiles. Place the remaining black bean tuiles on a work surface and pipe cheesecake mixture in the center of each tuile, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edge of each. Assemble the cheesecakes, stacking one black bean tuile with cheesecake mixture on top of each other. Top with the reserved black bean tuiles.

To serve: Place each cheesecake on a plate and garnish with a guava jelly cube and caramel sugar ring. Spoon a portion of the orange passion fruit coulis around the cheesecake.

Late Harvest

Dolce

Napa, California 1998

dean FEARING

Plantain-Crusted Halibut with Tropical Red Chili Sauce

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the halibut:
1/2 cup sesame oil
1 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon Thai curry paste
1 bunch basil, stemmed
1 bunch mint, stemmed
2 bunches cilantro, stemmed
6 ounces coconut milk
6 6-ounce halibut fillets

For the plantain crust:
3 green plantains, peeled
  and thinly sliced lengthwise
3/4 cup roasted and chopped peanuts
1/2 cup chopped basil
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
Salt and pepper to taste

For the tamales:
3 cups milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup masa
1/2 tablespoon baking powder
1 banana, roasted, peeled, and mashed
1/4 cup fresh corn kernels,
  roasted, peeled, and cut from cob
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
6 corn husks, soaked until soft

For the tropical red chilli sauce:
1 cup red chili sauce
1/2 banana, peeled and sliced
1/2 cup chopped pineapple
1/4 mango, peeled and chopped
4 ounces pineapple juice
1/2 chipotle pepper, stemmed and seeded
Salt and pepper to taste

For the black bean sauce:
1/2 cup black beaus, cooked
1/2-inch piece gingerroot,
  peeled and finely chopped
1/4 cup vegetable stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the mashed potatoes:
4 Idaho potatoes, peeled and
  boiled in salted water until tender
1/2 pound butter, melted
1 cup milk, hot
3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small red onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch sticks
2 yellow squash, cut into 1/4-inch sticks
1 red pepper, cut into 1/4-inch sticks
1/4 bunch scallions, green part only, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

To finish the halibut:
2 tablespoons olive oil
Reserved marinated halibut
Reserved plantain crust mixture

For the garnish:
Scallions, sliced

directions

For the halibut: In a blender, combine the sesame oil, olive oil, and Thai curry paste. Add the basil, mint, cilantro, and coconut milk and blend until smooth. Marinate the halibut overnight.

For the plantain crust: Preheat the deep fryer to 325 degrees. Fry the plantains in small batches until golden brown; drain on a paper towel-lined sheet pan and season with salt and pepper: Allow the plantains to dry overnight. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the plantains until they resemble bread crumbs. Add the peanuts, basil, and cilantro with the plantains and pulse to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

For the tamales: In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and butter to a boil and reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the masa stirring constantly until incorporated and add the baking powder. Continue cooking and stirring until the masa becomes shiny and pulls away from the sides of the pan. Add the banana, corn, cilantro, honey, and cinnamon. Tear off two thin strips from each cornhusk and set aside. Place four ounces of masa into the middle of each of the cornhusks and fold to enclose. Tie each end with the reserved strips of cornhusk. In a steamer, steam the tamales for 15 minutes.

For the tropical red chili sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium heat and add all of the ingredients. Bring to boil; reduce heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the black bean sauce: In a blender, add the black beans, gingerroot, and vegetable stock and puree. Season with salt and pepper.

For the mashed potatoes: Pass the potatoes through a food mill into a bowl. Add the butter, milk, and horseradish and mix to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the vegetables: Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the butter and oil. Add the onion and saute for two minutes. Add the garlic, zucchini, squash, pepper, and scallions; season with salt and pepper. Cook until the vegetables are tender. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the halibut: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Remove the halibut from the marinade and coat each side with the plantain crust mixture. Add the halibut to the saute pan and brown on both sides. Place in the oven and cook to desired doneness.

To serve: Spoon a portion of the potatoes onto a plate. Lay the halibut on top of the potatoes. Add the vegetables and tamale; drizzle the plate and tamale with the red chili sauce. Drizzle the black bean sauce on top of the red chili sauce. Garnish the tamale with scallions.

Chardonnay

Frog's Leap

Napa, California

tom KERPON

Posole Blanco

(Serves 8)

ingredients

For the pork:
1 pound pork butt, trimmed
1/2 gallon vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 tablespoon salt

For the soup:
1/2 teaspoon oil
1 small onion, pee]ed and chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
4 jalapenos, seeded and chopped
4 tomatillos, peeled and quartered

Reserved stock
1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds
1 cup cookedposole *
1/4 bunch cilantro, stemmed and Chopped
Reserved pork
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
1/2 avocado, peeled and diced
1/2 red onion, peeled and diced
1 Roma tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 bunch scallions, sliced
2 limes, quartered
16 slices French bread

* Available in Mexican markets.

directions

For the pork: In a large saucepan, combine the pork, stock, bay leaf, oregano, cumin, garlic, and salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer for one hour. Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl and set aside, keeping warm. Discard the remaining mixture except the pork. Shred the pork and set aside, keeping warm.

For the soup: Place a large saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion, garlic, jalapenos, and tomatillos and cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the stock and pumpkin seeds. With a hand-held immersion blender, puree the mixture until smooth. Add the posole, cilantro, and pork and season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Ladle the soup into a bowl and top with the avocado, red onion, tomato, scallions, lime, and two slices of French bread.

Negro Modelo Beer

tom KERPON

Grilled Ruby Trout with Western Succotash and Herbed-Butter Sauce

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the succotash:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup seeded and chopped
  red pepper
1/2 cup seeded and chopped poblano pepper
2 cups fresh corn kernels,
  cut from cob
2 cups cooked black beans
Salt and pepper to taste

For the mashed potatoes:
4 Idaho potatoes, peeled and boiled
  in salted water until tender
1/2 pound unsalted butter, melted
1 Cup milk, hot
3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
Salt and pepper to taste

For the herbed-buttered sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
2 cups white wine
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3/4 pound unsalted butter,
  diced and softened
Juice of 1 lemon
Assorted chopped herbs (parsley,
  thyme, basil, sage, and cilantro)
Salt to taste

For the ruby trout:
6 6-ounce fillets rub), trout
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Cilantro, chopped and sprigs
Scallions, chopped

directions

For the succotash: Place a large saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion, garlic, and peppers and saute until the onion turns translucent. Add the corn and beans and continue to cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the mashed potatoes: Pass the potatoes through food mill into a bowl. Add the butter, milk, horseradish, and mix well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm

For the herbed-butter sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallot and saute until translucent. Add the white wine, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Remove from the heat and slowly add the butter, whisking constantly. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the lemon juice and assorted herbs and season with salt. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the ruby trout: Prepare a hot grill. Season the fillets with salt and pepper. Mark both sides of the fillets on the grill and cook to desired doneness

To serve: Spoon a portion of the potatoes on a plate. Lay the fillet on top of the potatoes; spoon the succotash over the fillet and garnish with the scallions. Drizzle the herbed-butter sauce on the plate and garnish the trout with the cilantro.

Chardonnay "Special Cuvee"

Newton

Napa, California 2000

tom KERPON

Tortilla Soup

(Serves 8)

ingredients

For soup:
1/2 cup olive oil
5 small ancho chilies, stemmed and seeded
4 cups' corn tortillas, cut into thin strips
2 onions, roasted, peeled, and chopped
10 cloves garlic, roasted,
  peeled, and chopped
1 large tomato, roasted and chopped
Fresh corn kernels, roasted, peeled,
  and cut from 2 cobs
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 cup tomato juice
1/2 gallon vegetable stock
2 bunches cilantro, stemmed and chopped
Juice of lime to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the snake cracker:
1/2 cup milk, warmed
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon butter, melted
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 ounces all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon wheat bran
1/2 small potato, boiled and mashed
Melted butter as needed
Red chili flakes as needed
Grated asadero cheese as needed *

For the garnish:
White cheddar cheese, grated
Reserved fried tortilla strips
Cilantro sprigs

* Available in Mexican markets.

directions

For soup: Place a large saucepan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Fry the chilies, stirring for about 30 seconds; remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. In the same pan, fry the tortillas in two separate batches until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper-towel lined sheet pan to drain. Reserve for garnish. In the same pan, add the roasted vegetables, cumin, coriander, tomato juice, and stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, puree the soup and the chilies together. Add the cilantro and lime juice and season with salt and pepper.

For the snake cracker: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the milk, sugar, butter, and yeast and allow to rest for five minutes to activate the yeast. Add the salt, flour, wheat bran, and potato and knead in the mixer. Allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes. Divide the dough into four pieces. On a floured surface, roll one piece into a 1/4-inch thick log. Cut the log into 12-inch long snakes. Repeat the process with the three other pieces, Place the ,snakes in a zigzag pattern on a parchment paper lined ,sheet pan and brush each snake with melted butter. In a bowl, combine the chili flakes and cheese and sprinkle each snake with the mixture. Place the snakes into the oven and cook until the bottom of each snake turns golden brown, about 12 minutes.

To serve: Ladle the soup into bowls and add the cheese, tortilla strips, and cilantro. Place the snake cracker along the rim of the bowl.

White Bordeaux

Chateau Tour de Mirambeau

Bordeaux, France 2001

tom KERPON

Banana Squash-Wrapped Tuna Cumin and Carrot Puree

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the mustard saucy:
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 dove garlic, peeled and smashed
1/2 leek, white part only, chopped
1/4-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and chopped
1 stalk lemongrass, finely chopped
1 sprig thyme, stemmed and chopped
1 sprig oregano, stemmed and chopped
1 kaffir lime leaf, chopped
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

For the cumin and carrot puree:
2 small carrots, peeled and chopped
1 small Yukon gold potato, pealed and chopped
1 teaspoon chopped orange zest
2 ounces unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon toasted and ground cumin seeds
1 tablespoon heavy cream
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the tuna:
1/2 pound banana squash,
  peeled, seeded, thinly sliced
  into 16 pieces, and blanched
2 heads baby bok choy, cored,
  leaves separated, and blanched
20 ounces Ahi tuna, cut into
  four 5-ounce strips
1 tablespoon corn oil
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Baby carrots, peeled and blanched
Haricots verts, blanched
Micro herbs *
Corn shoots *

* Available through The Chef's
Garden at [phone].

directions

For the mustard sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion, garlic, leek, gingerroot, lemongrass, thyme, oregano, and lime leaf. Cook until the onion turns translucent. Add the stock and bring to a boil; reduce the heat mad simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the butter and mustard; whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the cumin and carrot puree: Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the carrots and potatoes and boil until tender. Transfer to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and puree until smooth. Add the orange zest, butter, and cumin and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl and set in an ice bath until cooled. Fold in the heavy cream and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a piping bag and set aside.

For the tuna: On a flat work surface, lay out a sheet of plastic wrap. Layer four slices of banana squash over the sheet, slightly overlapping. Place two bok choy leaves over each laver of squash. Season the tuna with salt and pepper and place over the bok choy. Wrap the squash and bok choy around the tuna, using the plastic wrap to secure the outside. Make three more rolls repeating this process. Place a large non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Remove the plastic wrap from the tuna rolls; season with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Sear until golden brown on all sides. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Slice a tuna roll into three pieces. Arrange the tuna on a plate and top each piece with a baby carrot, haricots verts, micro herbs, and a corn shoot. Pipe a portion of cumin and carrot puree onto the plate and drizzle with the mustard sauce.

Sauvignon Blanc

Thornbury

Marlborough, New Zealand 2002

martin RIOS

Corn and Crab Cappuccino with Gingered Spaghetti Squash and Anasazi Bean Salad

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the cappucino:
1 tablespoon corn oil
1 small shallot, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 leek, white part only, chopped
Fresh corn kernels, cut from 1 cob
3 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup half-and-half
1 cornhusk, chopped
1/4 pound Dungeness crabmeat
2 tablespoons fresh corn kernels,
  cut from cob and toasted
1 ounce assorted mushrooms,
  sauteed and chopped
1/2 small parsnip, peeled,
  blanched, and finely chopped
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 sprig basil, stemmed and chopped
1 sprig thyme, stemmed and chopped
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the carrot caramel sauce:
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons water
1/2 cup carrot juice
1/4-inch piece gingerroot,
  peeled and chopped
1 star anise
1/4 teaspoon chopped lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon chopped orange zest
Red chile powder to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the spaghetti squash
1/2 pound cooked
  spaghetti squash
2 tablespoons finely chopped
  pickled ginger
2 sprigs Thai basil, stemmed
  and chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and sliced thin
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the bean salad:
6 ounces anasazi beans, boiled *
2 radishes, sliced
1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts
1 small tomato, peeled and chopped
1/2 small cucumber, peeled, seeded,
  and chopped
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/4 cup walnut oil
2 sprigs basil, stemmed and chopped
2 sprigs thyme, stemmed and chopped
2 sprigs rosemary, stemmed
  and chopped
4 heirloom plum tomatoes,
  peeled, seeded, and halved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the green oil:
1/4 cup corn oil
1/2 bunch cilantro, stemmed
1/4 cup basil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
4 ounces boiled lobster meat
Osetra caviar
Micro cilantro
Crumbled goat cheese
Crushed peppercorns
Crushed cumin seeds
Julienned opal basil **
Chopped chives
Porcini mushroom powder

* Available through
The Great American
Spice Company
at [phone].

** Available through
The Chef's Garden
at [phone].

directions

For the cappuccino: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallot, garlic, leek, and corn and cook until translucent. Add the stock, half-and-half, and cornhusk and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm. In a bowl, combine the crabmeat, corn kernels, mushrooms, parsnip, olive oil, basil, thyme, and chives. Season with salt and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the carrot caramel sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the sugar and water and cook until caramelized to a medium amber color. Add the carrot juice, gingerroot, star anise, lemon and orange zest, and chile powder. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil: reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the spaghetti squash: In a bowl, combine the squash, ginger, basil, carrot, and grapeseed oil. Mix to combine; season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the bean salad: In a howl, combine the beans, radishes, pine nuts, tomato, cucumber, rice vinegar, walnut oil, basil, thyme, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Arrange the plum tomatoes cut-side up on a sheet pan. Divide the bean mixture evenly between the tomatoes and set aside.

For the green oil: In a small saucepan, heat the oil to 190 degrees. In a blender, place the cilantro and basil and drizzle in the oil. Season with salt and pepper and puree until smooth. Strain the mixture through a coffee filter and set aside.

To finish the cappuccino: Using an immersion blender, blend the reserved half-and-half mixture until light and loamy. Divide the reserved crabmeat mixture evenly between four demitasse cups and spoon the foam over the crabmeat.

To serve: Place a 2-inch ring mold in the center of a dinner plate and fill with the spaghetti squash mixture. Unmold and top with lobster meat, caviar, and micro cilantro. Place a tomato stuffed with bean salad next to the squash and garnish with goat cheese, crushed peppercorns, cumin seeds, and opal basil. Place a cup of cappuccino on the other side of the squash and garnish with chopped chives and porcini mushroom powder. Drizzle the plate with carrot caramel sauce and green oil.

Champagne

Gosset Grand Rose Brut NV

Champagne, France

martin RIOS

Spiced Squab with Rattlesnake Bean Agnolotti and Smoked Tea and Duck Consomme

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the consomme:
4 egg whites, whipped to soft peaks
1/4 cup tomato juice
1/2 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk fennel, finely chopped
1/4-inch piece gingerroot, peeled
  and finely chopped
1/2 leek, white part only, finely chopped
2 porcini mushrooms, finely chopped
3 tablespoons lapsang souchong tea *
1 ounce finely chopped prosciutto
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 sprig thyme, stemmed and chopped
1 sprig tarragon, stemmed and chopped
1 sprig parsley, stemmed and chopped
3 cups duck stock
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the pasta dough:
2 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 1/4 ounces semolina flour
2 egg yolks
1 egg
1 teaspoon olive oil

For the agnolotti:
1 cup rattlesnake beans, boiled
  and pureed
1 small shallot, peeled and pureed
2 tablespoons ricotta cheese
2 chanterelle mushrooms,
  sauteed and finely chopped
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
Reserved pasta dough
Egg wash as needed
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the squab:
1 tablespoon olive oil
Breasts and legs of 2 squabs
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground star anise
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Asparagus, blanched and halved
Lemon zest
Julienned prosciutto
Chervil

* Lapsang souchong tea is smoked over
pine needles. Available through Ten
Ren Tea Company at [phone].

directions

For the consomme: Combine all of the ingredients in medium saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir gently and frequently with a wooden spoon until the mixture reaches a simmer. Stop stirring and allow to simmer until the solids rise to the top, about 20 minutes. Using a ladle, carefully transfer the stock to a bowl and discard the solids. Season with salt and pepper and strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the pasta dough: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the flour and semolina. With the motor running, slowly add the egg yolks, egg, and olive oil. Mix on medium-low speed until the dough begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and set aside in the refrigerator for one hour. Roll the dough through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second thinnest setting. Using a 3-inch round cutter, cut out eight circles and set aside.

For the agnolotti: In a bowl, combine the beans, shallot, ricotta, mushrooms, and chives; season with salt and pepper. Mix to combine and transfer to a piping bag. Pipe the mixture into the center of the reserved pasta circles. Brush the edges with egg wash and fold in half to enclose the filling. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the agnolotti and simmer until cooked through. Remove from the heat and strain through a colander. Place a medium non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the agnolotti and saute until golden brown on one side. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the squab: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Sprinkle the squabs with the cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, coriander, salt, and pepper. Add to the pan and brown on both sides. Place in the oven and cook until desired doneness. Remove from the pan and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place two agnolotti in a soup bowl. Arrange four pieces of asparagus over the agnolotti and top with a portion of squab. Pour a serving of consomme into the bowl and garnish with lemon zest, prosciutto, and chervil.

Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge

E.Guigal

Rhone, France 2000

martin RIOS

Seared Scallops with Sweet Corn and Grits Pancake

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the pancakes:
1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes,
  peeled, boiled, and mashed
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 egg, beaten
1 egg yolk
1 ounce yellow grits, cooked
2 ounces fresh corn kernels
  from cob and blanched
2 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the red pepper sauce:
3 red peppers, seeded, blanched, and chopped
Juice of 1/2 orange
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lime juice
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
3 tablespoons half-and-half heated
2 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the corn salad:
Fresh corn kernels, cut from 1 cob
  and blanched
2 ounces jicama, peeled, blanched, and diced
1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
1/2 small parsnip, peeled, blanched, and diced
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
1 sprig mint, stemmed and chopped
2 teaspoons yuzu juice *
2 tablespoons walnut oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
1 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 sea scallops
Wax beans, blanched
Micro greens **
Corn shoots **

* Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit
which has a delicate citrus aroma.
Available in Asian markets.

** Available through The Chef's
Garden at [phone].

directions

For the pancake: Coat the inside of four 1/2-inch tall, 2-inch ring molds with non-stick spray and set aside. In a bowl, combine the mashed potatoes, flour, sour cream, egg and egg yolk and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper and fold in the grits, corn, and parsley. Place a medium non stick saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Place the prepared molds in the pan and fill with the corn mixture. Saute until golden brown on both sides. Remove from the heat: unmold and set aside, keeping warm.

For the red pepper sauce: In a blender, add the peppers and orange juice and puree until smooth. Transfer to a small saucepan and add the lemon and lime juices. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for three minutes, Add the sugar and half-and-half. Simmer until reduced by one quarter. Remove from the heat and add the butter, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Using an immersion blender, foam the sauce. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the corn salad: In a howl combine all of the ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Mix to combine and set aside

For the dish: Place a medium saute pan over high heat and add the oil. Season the scallops with salt and pepper and saute until golden brown, turning once. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a pancake in a howl. Place a 2-inch tall ring mold around the cake; fill with a portion of corn salad and place two wax beans over the corn salad. Remove the mold and top with a scallop. Spoon a serving of red pepper sauce into the bowl Garnish with micro greens and a corn shoot.

Chardonnay

Shafer "Red Shoulder Ranch"

Napa, California 2001

martin RIOS

Foie Gras Napoleon with Acorn Squash and Ponzu Marmalade

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the brioche:
1/2 ounce yeast
2 ounces milk, warm
10 ounces flour
1 ounce granulated sugar
7 ounces unsalted butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 ounces walnuts, toasted and chopped
3 ounces butternut squash,
  peeled, blanched, and diced
Egg wash, as needed

For the sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
2 ounces mushroom stems, chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 ancho Chili, seeded
1 small stalk lemongrass, chopped
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig tarragon
1 sprig mint
2 tablespoons black cherry preserves
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/4 cup sherry
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup demi-glace
Salt and pepper to taste

For the marmalade:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 pound acorn squash, peeled,
  seeded, and chopped
2 tablespoons raw sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 teaspoon yuzu juice *
1/2 teaspoon mirin
1/4 teaspoon chopped yuzu peel
2 tablespoons chicken stock
Salt, and white pepper to taste

For the dish:
1 teaspoon olive oil
12 ounces foie gras, cut into
  four 3-ounce slices
Reserved brioche slices

For the garnish:
1 Anjou pear, peeled,
  cored, and sliced
Fried salsify
Pea puree
Chopped Mint
Chives

* Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit
which has a delicate citrus aroma.
Available in Asian markets.

Note: The brioche recipe yields
one 9 x 5 x 2 1/2-inch loaf.

directions

For the brioche: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the yeast and milk and stir to dissolve. Add two ounces of flour; mix to combine and set aside for live minutes. Acid the sugar, eggs, and the remaining flour. Mix on medium speed for 10 minutes. Add the butter and salt and mix to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Coat the inside of a 9 x 5 x 2 1/2-inch loaf pan with non-stick spray and set aside. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and punch it down. Fold in the walnuts and squash and transfer to the prepared pan. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume. Remove the plastic; brush the dough with egg wash and place in the oven to bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Transfer the loaf to a cutting board; cut into eight slices and set aside.

For the sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the shallot, garlic, mushroom stems, carrot, chili, lemongrass, thyme, tarragon, and mint. Cook until tender; add the cherry preserves and cook for two minutes. Add the sherry vinegar and reduce until almost dry. Add the sherry and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Add the chicken stock cam demi-glace and reduce until the mixture coats the back of a spoon and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the marmalade: Place a medium saute pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Acid the squash and saute until golden brown. Acid the sugar, soy sauce, rice vinegar, yuzu juice, mirin, and yuzu peel. Reduce until almost dry. Season with salt and pepper and add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until almost dry. Remove from the heat and set in an ice bath until cooled.

For the dish: Place a medium saute pan over high heat and add the oil. Add the foie gras and saute until golden brown on both sides. Remove from the pan and acid the brioche. Saute until golden brown on both sides.

To serve: Place a slice of brioche on a plate. Stack with foie gras, pear, brioche, pear, and foie gras. Garnish with fried salsify. Spoon a portion of sauce around the plate and place a quenelle of the marmalade next to the napoleon. Pipe a portion of pea puree around the plate and garnish the marmalade with mint and chives.

Gewurtzraminer

Trimbach

Alsace, France 2000

martin RIOS

Squash-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Scarlet Runner Bean Fricassee

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the lamb rub:
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 pound acorn squash, peeled,
  seeded, and grated
1/4 teaspoon toasted mustard seeds
1/4 teaspoon toasted peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon toasted fennel seeds

For the sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
2 ounces mushroom stems, chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 sprig lemon thyme
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons Madeira wine
1/4 cup demi-glace
1/2 cup lamb jus
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fricassee:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pearl onions,
  peeled and halved
2 porcini mushrooms, Chopped
1/2 cup chicken stock
4 baby carrots, peeled,
  blanched, and sliced
4 ounces boded scarlet framer beans
2 ounces fava beans, shelled
1 ounce black truffle, slices
1 sprig thyme, stemmed
  and chopped
1 sprig rosemary, stemmed
  and chopped
1/4 bunch chives, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lamb:
1 tablespoon corn oil
1 8-rib lamb rack, frenched
Reserved lamb rub
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Sauteed spinach
Sliced black truffles
Lemon thyme leaves
Bay leaves

directions

For the lamb rub: On a sheet pan, place a silpat and brush with one teaspoon of oil. Sprinkle the grated squash evenly over the silpat. Place in the oven with the pilot light on overnight until squash is completely dry. Remove from the oven; transfer to a spice grinder and add the mustard seeds, peppercorns, and fennel seeds. Grind into a powder and set aside.

For the sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the shallot, garlic, mushroom stems, carrot, and thyme and saute until lightly, browned Add the tomato paste and cook for two minutes. Add the sherry vinegar and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until almost dry. Add the Madeira and reduce by three-quarters. Add the demi-glace and lamb jus: reduce until the mixture coats the back of a wooden spoon and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside keeping, warm.

For the fricassee: Place a medium saute pan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the pearl onions and saute until translucent. Add the porcini mushrooms and saute until golden brown. Add the chicken stock and simmer for two minutes. Add the carrots, beans, truffles, thyme, rosemary, and chives and summer for an additional two minutes. Season with salted pepper and remove from the heat. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the lamb: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place a Large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Season the lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Brown on all sides; place in the oven and cook until desired doneness. Remove from the oven and coat with the lamb pub. Return to the oven and cook for an additional two minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Slice into four servings.

To serve: Place a portion of sauteed spinach on a dinner plate and top with a serving of lamb. Place a small decorative saucepan next to the lamb and fill with the fricassee. Spoon the sauce around the lamb and garnish the beans with truffle slices, thyme, and bay leaves.

Cabernet Sauvignon

PlumpJack

Oakville, California 1999

martin RIOS

Butternut Squash and Espresso Flan with Milk Chocolate Cake

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the blackberry tea sorbet:
2 pints blackberries
8 ounces water
7 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces glucose
1 1/2 teaspoons ice cream stabilizer
4 Red Zinger tea bags

For the butternut squash fan:
Softened butter as needed
14 ounces butternut squash, peeled,
  seeded, chopped, and boiled
5 ounces granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 ounces heavy cream
8 ounces milk
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
6 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons espresso

For the soup:
20 ounce water
4 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon corn syrup
12 ounces apple cider
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise
1 teaspoon chopped lemon zest
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped

For the chocolate cake:
Softened butter, as needed
6 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
2 ounces bittersweet
  chocolate, chopped
4 ounces unsalted butter
9 egg yolks
2 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces all purpose flour, sifted

For the garnish:
Butternut squash chips
Julienned mint
Julienned opal basil *

* Available through The Chef's
Garden at [phone].

directions

For the blackberry tea sorbet: In a blender, add the blackberries and one-half cup water and puree until smooth. Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and combine the sugar, glucose, stabilizer, and remaining water. Bring to a simmer and add the tea bags and reserved blackberry puree. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set in all ice bath until cooled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the butternut squash fan: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Brush the inside of four 3-inch ramekins with softened butter. In a blender, add the squash and puree until smooth. Place a small saucepan over medium heat and combine two ounces of sugar and the water. Bring to a simmer and cook until golden brown. Remove from the heat; divide the mixture evenly between the prepared ramekins and set aside. Place a small saucepan over medium heat and add the heavy cream, milk, and vanilla bean. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl, combine the eggs, espresso, remaining sugar, and reserved squash puree. Whisk until smooth. Temper the egg mixture, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg mixture into the hot milk; remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Divide the mixture evenly between the reserved ramekins. Set in a hot water bath; place in the oven and bake until set, about 30 minutes. Remove from the water bath; set in an ice bath until cooled and set aside.

For the soup: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and combine the water, sugar, and corn syrup. Bring to a simmer and cook until golden. Add the apple cider, cinnamon stick, star anise, lemon zest, and vanilla bean and mix to combine. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by one-quarter. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set in an ice bath until cooled and set aside.

For the chocolate cake: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush the inside of four 3-inch ring molds with softened butter; place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a bowl, combine the milk chocolate, bittersweet chocolate, and butter and place over a double boiler until melted. Set aside to cool slightly. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the eggs and egg yolks. Add the sugar, one-third at a time, and beat until the mixture becomes light and airy. Add the chocolate mixture and fold in the flour without over mixing. Divide the mixture evenly between the prepared molds; place in the oven and bake until set, about eight minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Unmold a chocolate cake in the center of a bowl. Unmold a butternut squash flan and place it over the cake. Top with a scoop of blackberry tea sorbet and butternut squash drips. Pout" a serving of soup into the bowl and garnish with mint and opal basil.

Late Harvest Souvignon Blanc/Semillion

Ferrari-Carrano, Eldorado Gold

Sonoma, California 2000

martin RIOS