20 BEST DISHES OF THE YEAR.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Sometimes, a single example of the year's most memorable tastes has been experienced in an otherwise low-rated restaurant.

But not necessarily.

Usually, it's a pretty good all-around restaurant that comes up with something that sticks out as one of the year's best dishes.

It doesn't have to be a grandiose entree. It could be an appetizer, a soup, a plate or bowl of pasta, a dessert, even a slice or two of house- baked bread.

After looking back at this past year's review visits and the hundreds of dishes consumed during that period, I have selected 20 food items that stood out, that seemed very special at the time.

They could be inexpensive, fair or high-priced. They could be the only plates that, at the time, seemed deserving of accolades from everyday kitchens, or conversely, one of a particular restaurant's many fine recipes.

Whether labeled a traditional or innovative dish, it doesn't matter. As long as it made a mighty impression on that occasion, that's what counts.

Let's hope that other diners have found these 20 dishes as worthy as I have, which, of course, helps in maintaining prolonged availability.

Aromi Cafe

Address: 14531 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Gelateria.

Dish of the year: Banana or lemon gelato.

Barrio Fiesta

Address: 3687 San Fernando Road, Glendale.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Filipino.

Dish of the year: Manok nilaga soup with chicken, cabbage and potatoes.

Cavaliere Ristorante

Address: 20200 Sherman Way, Canoga Park.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish of the year: Assorted house-made ravioli.

Chava's

Address: 8366 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Mexican seafood.

Dish of the year: Huachinango relleno con camarones y pulpo (whole red snapper stuffed with shrimp and octopus).

China Wave

Address: 8930 Corbin Ave., Northridge.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Chinese.

Dish of the year: Warm oysters (10) with ginger and green onion.

Cravings

Address: 686 Lindero Canyon Road, Oak Park.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Eclectic fast food.

Dish of the year: Baked two-cheese cornbread with clover honey drizzle.

Delmonico's Lobster House

Address: 16358 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Seafood.

Dish of the year: Maine lobster bisque.

Globe

Address: 72 Market St., Venice Beach.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: New American.

Dish of the year: Alaskan halibut en papillote with porcinis, leeks, celery, carrots and crispy flavored rice.

Grand Lux Cafe

Address: 121 N. La Cienega Blvd. (Beverly Center), Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: International.

Dish of the year: Chicken and shrimp jambalaya.

Josie

Address: 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: New American/International.

Dish of the year: Tagine-style seasoned and spiced cod.

Kobe

Address: 22984 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Japanese.

Dish of the year: Wild duck soup with soba noodles.

La Cupola 

Address: 706 Lindero Canyon Road, Oak Park.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish of the year: Whole baked branzino (striped bass).

Maggiano's Little Italy

Address: 6100 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: New York Italian.

Dish of the year: New York cheesecake.

Mandarin 88

Address: 23360 Valencia Blvd., Valencia.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Chinese.

Dish of the year: Mandarin 88 special of lobster and chicken with roast pork.

Purple Basil

Address: 4719 Commons Way, Calabasas.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Amer-Asian.

Dish of the year: Crispy wonton napoleon of shiitake mushrooms.

Rustico

Address: 1125 Lindero Canyon Road, Westlake Village.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Franco-Italian.

Dish of the year: Sweet pea soup.

Simon's Cafe

Address: 17209 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Mediterranean.

Dish of the year: Couscous royale.

Spumoni 

Address: 14533 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: Italian.

Dish of the year: Calamari affogati in basil-flavored tomato broth.

Tournesol

Address: 13251 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Dish of the year: Black mussel and clam soup with thyme and lemon.

Vie de France

Address: 12131 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Phone: [phone].

Cuisine: French.

Dish of the year: Escargots in a brioche basket with mashed potato.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 4 -- color) Clockwise from top left: Chef Lucibe Cantilero offers Filipino fare at Barrio Fiesta; at Josie, Jill Davie, left, and owner Josie Le Balch cook up some favorites; and speaking of favorites, the striped bass at La Cupola made the top 20, as did the huachinango relleno at Chava's.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer

Charlotte Schmid-Maybech/Staff Photographer