'TIS THE SEASON FOR FRUITCAKES FAVORITES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Fruitcakes. Either you love 'em or you hate 'em. They are maligned by those who can't stand them and revered by those who can't wait to indulge in them. They're the butt of many a joke - and unwelcome as a well-intentioned gift in many a home. In some they're even considered bricks and used as doorstops.

But all kidding aside - we do know people who eat them - and are anxious to get their hands on the seasonal specialty. Even though you may not believe it, there is such a thing as a good fruitcake. And if you've ever tasted a terrific one - without all that citron - and loaded with nuts and other fruits - you may understand why some favor them.

That said, it's not too late to get busy and whip up a few for all those fans on your list. The first three in today's collection are personal favorites. All have their own special attributes and are delicious.

If you like your fruitcakes with mostly fruits and nuts and a minimum of batter, try Mom's Fruitcake, the tried-and-true one my mother baked for years that rated raves. The flavor is wonderful, it looks gorgeous and many tasters (and readers) have given it top marks over the years. Bake the cakes in mini- or regular-size loaf pans and age in the refrigerator a few weeks, dousing with brandy every week or so.

Be sure to start baking it when you have plenty of time and are doing other chores around the house. One year I put the cakes in the oven after midnight and fell asleep by mistake. I awoke to the smell - and sight - of burned fruitcakes! What a waste of good ingredients and a lot of time and effort.

The Chocolate Fudge Fruitcake is an ideal choice for chocolate fanatics. The fruits and nuts are nestled in a chocolate batter instead of the traditional fruitcake batter. The non-traditional Zucchini Fruitcake is also great-tasting, with raisins, dates, dried apricots and a myriad of wonderful spices. The Mary Meade fruitcake recipe is adapted from ``The Chicago Tribune Cookbook.'' It's rich and light in flavor and can be eaten immediately after baking, if desired. The original recipe came from Mary Meade - a pseudonym associated with Ruth Ellen Church, Chicago Tribune food editor from 1936 to 1974.

Other variations on the fruitcake theme include a couple of quick variations made with sweetened condensed milk. One is baked, the other is simply refrigerated a couple of days before slicing.

When shopping for fruitcake ingredients, figure that a pound of shelled almonds or Brazil nuts will measure about 3 cups, while a pound of shelled walnuts or pecans will yield about 4 cups. Also keep in mind that a pound of raisins, dried apricots, prunes, dried peaches and dried figs will measure about 3 to 3 1/2 cups, while a pound of fresh dates or cut-up candied fruits and peels will yield about 2 cups. For enthusiasts who've cultivated a love for a good fruitcake - and aren't afraid to stand up and be counted - here are some recipes.

MOM'S FRUITCAKE

1 pound whole candied cherries

1 pound candied pineapple, coarsely cut

1 1/2 to 2 pounds pitted dates, coarsely cut

2 pounds (8 cups) pecan halves

2 cups sifted flour

4 eggs, separated

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 

Brandy

Combine fruits and nuts in a very large bowl; cover with 1 cup flour and mix well, coating fruits and nuts.

Beat egg yolks; add sugar and remaining 1 cup flour resifted with baking powder and salt. Combine with fruits and nuts and mix well. Fold in spices and beaten egg whites. (Do not worry that there is hardly any cake batter in proportion to fruits and nuts - that is the way it should be.)

Line 3 (6x3 1/2x2-inch) loaf pans or 2 (8x4x2 1/2-inch) loaf pans with brown paper greased on both sides. Pack in fruitcake batter so no holes are left.

Bake on middle rack in preheated 250-degree oven 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until done. (Place shallow pan of water below cakes to keep from burning on edges and to keep moist.) Let stand 15 minutes.

Remove cakes from pans and cool on a rack. Remove brown paper. Sprinkle with brandy. Cool completely and wrap in plastic wrap, then foil.

Store cakes in refrigerator 6 to 8 weeks or several months, sprinkling with brandy 2 to 3 times during this period. Makes 2 to 3 cakes, depending on size.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE FRUITCAKE

1/2 cup brandy

1 cup candied pineapple chunks

1/2 cup halved candied cherries

1 cup raisins

3/4 cup butter

1 1/2 cups sugar

6 eggs, separated

4 squares (1 ounce EACH) unsweetened chocolate, melted and cooled

2 cups sifted flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 cups (OR more) pecans, coarsely chopped

Pour brandy over fruits in a bowl; let stand several hours or overnight. Drain fruit, reserving brandy.

Line 2 (9x5x3-inch) loaf pans (or use miniloaf pans) with brown paper greased on both sides.

Cream butter; gradually add 1 cup sugar. Beat in egg yolks, two at a time, beating after each addition. Stir in cooled chocolate.

Resift flour with baking powder and add to batter, alternately with reserved brandy. (If fruit has absorbed most of brandy, add a little more.) Stir in fruits and nuts.

Beat egg whites until almost stiff; slowly add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Fold into batter and turn into prepared pans.

Bake in preheated 250-degree oven about 2 1/2 hours or until cake tests done. (Place shallow pan of water below cakes.)

Let cakes stand 15 minutes; remove from pans. Pour a few tablespoons brandy over each cake and cool thoroughly.

Wrap in plastic wrap, then foil. Store 6 to 8 weeks in refrigerator; sprinkle with brandy 2 to 3 times during this period. Makes 2 loaf cakes.

ZUCCHINI FRUITCAKE

2 cups dark seedless raisins

1 cup chopped pitted dates

1 package (6 ounces) dried apricots, chopped

Brandy OR rum

3 eggs

1 cup vegetable oil

2 cups packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

3 cups unsifted flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons EACH baking soda and ground allspice

1 teaspoon EACH salt, ground nutmeg and ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

2 cups grated zucchini

2 cups coarsely chopped walnuts

In a saucepan, heat together raisins, dates, apricots and 1/2 cup brandy, about 5 minutes, until most of liquid is absorbed; set aside.

Beat together egss, oil, brown sugar and vanilla until well blended.

In a separate bowl, thoroughly mix flour, cinnamon, baking soda, allspice, salt, nutmeg, cloves and baking powder. Stir into creamed mixture. With a spoon, mix in zucchini, walnuts and fruit mixture until well blended.

Spoon batter into 2 greased and floured (or paper-lined) 9x5-inch loaf pans.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven about 1 hour and 10 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Let cool in pans on racks. If desired, spoon 1/4 cup brandy over each loaf while warm. When completely cool, remove fruitcakes from pans and wrap well. Then freeze. Or let wrapped loaves age at least 2 weeks in refrigerator before serving. Makes 2 loaves.

CLASSIC CHRISTMAS FRUITCAKE

2 1/2 cups raisins

1 cup mixed candied fruits and peel

1 cup whole candied cherries

1 cup candied pineapple chunks

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon EACH ground ginger, ground nutmeg and ground allspice

1/2 cup rum, brandy OR fruit juice

2 cups walnut halves and pieces

1/2 cup butter OR margarine, softened

1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar

2 eggs

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

Rum OR brandy, for aging

In a bowl, mix fruits, spices and 1/2 cup rum. Cover; let stand several hours or overnight. Add nuts; set aside.

In a large mixer bowl, cream butter, brown sugar and eggs until light and fluffy. Sift together flour, baking soda and salt; stir in. Mix in fruit-nut mixture until well distributed. Turn into a 9x5-inch loaf pan that has been greased and lined with greased heavy brown paper.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven about 2 hours or until a pick inserted into center comes out clean. Cover with foil as needed during baking to prevent overbrowning. Cool fruitcake in pan on a rack. Remove from pan; gently peel off paper. Brush cake with rum on all sides.

Wrap in a rum-soaked cheesecloth. Store in a covered food container in a cool dry place to age 3 weeks to 3 months, adding rum as needed to keep cloth moist. Makes 1 fruitcake.

EVER-SO-EASY FRUITCAKE

2 1/2 cups unsifted flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 jar (28 ounces) ready-to-use mincemeat 

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

2 cups (1 pound) mixed candied fruit

1 cup coarsely chopped nuts

Grease a 9-inch tube pan; line with wax paper and grease again (or use a generously greased and floured 10-inch fluted tube pan).

Sift together flour and baking soda; set aside.

In a large bowl, combine remaining ingredients; blend in dry ingredients. Turn into prepared pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour and 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near center comes out clean. Cool 15 minutes. Turn out of pan; remove wax paper. Garnish, as desired. Makes 1 (9-inch) fruitcake.

NO-BAKE FRUITCAKE

4 cups graham cracker crumbs (about 4 dozen, 2 1/2-inch graham crackers)

1 cup mixed candied fruit

1 cup golden raisins

1 cup pitted and chopped dates

1 cup chopped nuts

1 cup miniature marshmallows

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk

Line a 9x5-inch loaf pan with wax paper. Mix together all ingredients, first with a spoon and then with hands, until crumbs are thoroughly moistened. Pack securely into pan. Cover tightly. Chill at least 2 days before slicing.

To serve, slice thinly or cut into small squares. Makes 1 (2 1/4-pound) loaf.

HURRY UP FRUITCAKE

1 cup EACH dried apricots, dates and walnuts, whole OR coarsely chopped

1 cup raisins

3/4 cup brandy

3/4 cup butter

3/4 cup packed brown sugar

4 eggs

2 cups flour

1/2 cup cornmeal 

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Combine apricots, dates, walnuts, raisins and 1/2 cup brandy; cover, let stand at room temperature 2 hours or overnight.

Cream butter and brown sugar; add eggs, one at a time, beating well. Gradually add combined dry ingredients. Mix in drained fruits and nuts (reserve marinade). Turn into a greased 9x5-inch loaf pan.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 50 to 60 minutes. Pour reserved marinade and remaining 1/4 cup brandy over warm fruitcake.

When cool, garnish with powdered sugar and apricots, if desired. Serve at once or wrap and store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Makes 1 cake.

MARY MEADE'S WHITE FRUITCAKE

1 pound EACH candied pineapple, candied cherries and light raisins, plus more for garnish

1/2 pound EACH candied lemon peel, candied orange peel and candied citron

1 1/2 cups orange-flavored liqueur OR white wine, plus additional to brush on cake

3 cups (6 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

2 cups sugar

12 large eggs

6 cups sifted flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 pounds (6 cups) pecans OR walnuts, plus more for garnish

Corn syrup 

Cut pineapple in varying sizes. Slice cherries in half. Combine pineapple, cherries, raisins, peels and citron in a large bowl. Stir in liqueur. Let stand, covered, overnight.

Cream butter and sugar in a bowl of an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time; beat well after each addition. Add flour, baking powder and salt; beat on low until combined. Stir batter and nuts into fruit mixture.

Grease 4 (9x5-inch) loaf pans. Line with wax or parchment paper and grease paper. Spoon batter into pans. Place pans in a shallow roasting pan; fill with hot water to come halfway up sides of pans.

Bake in preheated 250-degree oven until golden and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Cool cakes in pans 15 minutes. Turn cakes out; remove paper and cool completely on a wire rack.

Brush additional liqueur over top and sides of cakes using a pastry brush. Wrap in foil; store in a covered food container for at least 1 week.

To finish cakes before serving or giving away, brush some corn syrup and decorate with additional candied fruit and nuts. Brush top with additional corn syrup. Let dry slightly. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Makes 4 cakes, 12 servings each.

NOTE: Texture and flavor of this cake improves with aging. If cake is stored any length of time (a few weeks or a month), brush cake with additional liqueur, if dry.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

PHOTO (1 -- color) Make fruitcakes in a myraid of sizes, shapes and flavors.

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(2) Fruitcakes remain a traditional part of the holidays for adventurous cooks and eaters.