'CARDIFF HAS A GOOD MIX' Lonely Planet writer's verdict on city.

He can make or break a city's reputation with his words. Today, as Lonely Planet prepares to release its latest guide to Great Britain, its Wales author David Atkinson talks to STEFFAN RHYS about his impressions of Cardiff FOR travel writer David Atkinson, Cardiff is perhaps summed by osne feature more than any other - its arcades.

Calm, narrow and loaded with character, they have been a haven for independent boutiques, delis, cafes, restaurants and shops since the reign of Queen Victoria.

Currently battling a two-pronged attack in the forms of a global recession and considerable development within the city centre - most notably St David's 2 and the changing face of St Mary Street - the arcades' traders fear for their future, something Mr Atkinson believes must be safeguarded.

"If you walk down St Mary Street it's very easy to pass the arcades, but dip into them and you enter a whole new world," said Mr Atkinson, a freelance travel writer.

"It would be a great shame to see them go because they are a very important part of Cardiff's history.

"They have become, for me, a symbol of Cardiff, along with the Millennium Stadium and Cardiff Castle." Many city centre traders claim they have seen sales drop by up to 40% since the private car ban on St Mary Street, and the arcades have been particularly hit, as shown by the high-profile closure of Woodies Emporium.

And when Taurus Steak House closed in February, its owner blamed the St David's 2 building works, as well as the St Mary Street car ban and what he viewed as an alcohol-fuelled night-time economy.

But Mr Atkinson said: "I do not see why a progressive forward-thinking city like Cardiff can't have the two [the arcades and St David's 2] coexist.

"Every city strives for modernisation and embraces new projects but I would like to see the two exist together.

"There are hundreds of years of history in them. They are a cornerstone of the city's identity." The extensive ongoing redevelopment across central Cardiff is a feature of the city not lost on visitors, but Mr Atkinson believes the city will benefit in the future..

"While all this work is going on, Cardiff is obviously a place in transition," he said.

"But once the work comes to an end and the city has a chance to bed down a bit, it will be easier.

"It's a bit bewildering for tourists at the moment. It was a bit of a mess the last time I visited..

"I had to redraw my map because it's as if streets keep disappearing.

"But generally, my impressions of the city are very positive.

"There is lots of progress, you can see it's changing, you can see the investment, and there is a real sense of life.

"I'm getting to know the place well and getting a real feel for it..

"And it's got a good mix. It's got the nightlife scene, some quality hotels that will bring in the business traveller and international visitor.

" It's good to eat out, it's got the family feel, the high- end weekend break and the cheap and cheerful market covered." Lonely Planet Great Britain (8th edition) is out on May 21, priced pounds 16.99

CITY ARCADES 'OFFER A MIX OF INDEPENDENT RETAILERS AND EATERIES'

WHAT Lonely Planet says of Cardiff's arcades: Known as "the city of arcades", Cardiff's Victorian-built former alleyways, later covered over with ornate roofs to form enclosed shopping streets, are Cardiff's best-kept secret.

They offer a vibrant mix of independent retailers and eateries a far cry from the chain store-dominated behemoth that will be St David's 2.

Castle Arcade, between Duke Street and High Street, is the most decorative and home to Troutmark Books for second-hand and Welsh-language books; Madame Fromage, a delightful deli and cheese shop with local produce; and Cafe Minuet.

High Street Arcade, between High Street and St John Street, boasts Telynau Vining Harps for traditional music; try dance music specialists Catapult for vinyl and DJ equipment; and Hobo's for Sixties and Seventies retro clothing.

Royal Arcade between St Mary Street and The Hayes, is the oldest arcade with Wally's Delicatessen for wholefoods and deli; and, by the back entrance, Spillers Records, the world's oldest record shop (founded 1894).

Wyndham Arcade, between Mill Lane and St Mary Street, is the base for The Comic Guru for all your essential Dr Who needs; and The Bear Shop, a gloriously old-fashioned specialist tobacconist.

Finally, David Morgan Arcade, between St Mary Street and The Hayes, houses the administration office for the arcades and both Crumbs and The Plan, two excellent eateries..