`New' Grafton Inn debuts as a winner.Byline: Bill Cory It had been years since we'd dined at the Grafton Inn. We overheard some local folk complimenting the bartender on the "new" look of the inn. It certainly does look fresh, especially for an 1805 building. The bayberry bayberry, common name for the Myricaceae, a family of trees and shrubs with aromatic foliage, found chiefly in temperate and subtropical regions. The waxy gray "berries" of the North American wild or cultivated bayberry shrubs (chiefly Myrica cerifera green and white motif works perfectly. We were seated in the bi-level dining room, opposite one of the two fireplaces, each of which displayed a summer arrangement illuminated by candles glowing within hurricane shades. It turns out that the new owners, Kate and Larry Loughan, have just renewed the inn and reopened it, ignoring the jokes, on April 1. The Loghans both have extensive hospitality experience and Kate grew up in Grafton. They've wisely put the kitchen in the hands of experienced culinary school graduate Chris Scanlon. We enjoyed a pleasant glass of crisp Angeline chardonnay, $8, and tried to resist the fresh, crusty bread offered with whipped sweet butter and olive tapenade ta·pé·nade n. A spread of Provençal origin consisting of capers, black olives, and anchovies puréed with olive oil. [French, from Provençal tapéno, capers.] Noun 1. . No such luck. The best we could do was to decline our server's offer of even more bread. The menu lists seven appetizers, six salads and a daily soup; prices ranged from $5 for the soup to $12 for pan-seared scallops or duck confit Duck confit (French: confit de canard) is a French dish made with duck legs. While it is made across France, it is seen as a specialty of Gascony. The confit is prepared in a centuries-old process of preservation that consists of salting (with garlic and spices) a piece of . The variety among the seven appetizers was remarkable. We both had difficulty choosing. The Soup Goddess chose grilled flatbread with mushrooms, Boursin cheese and caramelized onions for $8. We both enjoyed it, but I felt that the herbed herbed adj. Flavored with herbs: herbed vinaigrette. cheese overwhelmed the subtle mushrooms. My choice was the duck confit for $12. It was perfectly delicious with spicy pecans and a delightful port wine reduction. The finishing touch was a favorite of mine, blue Stilton cheese Stil´ton cheese´ n. 1. A peculiarly flavored unpressed cheese made from milk with cream added; - so called from the village or parish of The entree selection begins with steaks, including a hanger steak and a prime skirt steak. We were tempted by a rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb crown roast rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting and the veal porterhouse as well, but some of the last eight choices intrigued us, too: grilled duck breast; baked penne pasta with summer vegetables; pan-seared salmon and pasta with sliced veal, sugar snap peas, red peppers and roasted garlic cream among them. The Soup Goddess selected braised braise tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container. beef short ribs with spinach and roasted plum tomatoes with herbed risotto ri·sot·to n. pl. ri·sot·tos A dish of rice cooked in broth, usually with saffron, and served with grated cheese. [Italian, from riso, rice, from Old Italian; see rice. , for $24. They were very well prepared, tender with wonderful flavor. She enjoyed as much as she could, but didn't quite finish the generous portion. My choice was a pairing of Cajun catfish and shrimp called "Louisiana Matrimony MATRIMONY. See Marriage. ," priced at $20. There were four good-size shrimp and a wonderful catfish with a really fine tasso ham-bell pepper cream. Scallion scallion: see onion. rice and fresh asparagus finished the plate. It was Cajun perfection; exactly what I had hoped for when I ordered it, and I DID finish all of mine. I thought that the ribs may have been slightly overpriced o·ver·price tr.v. o·ver·priced, o·ver·pric·ing, o·ver·pric·es To put too high a price or value on. overpriced Adjective costing more than it is thought to be worth Adj. , but my dinner was priced too low. So, overall, we had an excellent meal at the right price. Desserts were homemade and as creative as the rest of the menu. The Soup Goddess ordered souffled lemon custard with chiffon cake for $5. It was light as could be, with plenty of freshly whipped cream and pieces of cake in the custard. My dessert was similar: peaches and cream Peaches and Cream is a dessert made of peaches and cream. It is often served at ice cream stands and float shops. Many types of hard candy, such as Creme Savers, also come in a peaches and cream flavor. with lots of whipped cream and pieces of chiffon cake but surprisingly few bits or pieces of peaches, especially at a $6.50 price. Service could not have been better. Ammie MacDonald is a real pro - she was delightful and watchful; she never missed a beat. Our dinner for two came to $75 plus beverages, tax and gratuity Money, also known as a tip, given to one who provides services and added to the cost of the service provided, generally as a reward for the service provided and as a supplement to the service provider's income. . It was well worth it and close to a perfect dinner. The Loughans are off to a great start with their much improved Grafton Inn. The Grafton Inn 24 Grafton Common, Grafton www.thegraftoninn.com * * *-1/2 Hours: Brunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., dinner 2 to 9 p.m. Sundays; 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays Phone: (508) 839-5931 Parking: Private lot Handicapped access: Good Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa, Discover, American Express Prices: Entrees $16 to $28 Pluses: An interesting menu well executed by Chris Scanlon's near-perfect kitchen Minuses: Nothing serious: A little flavor imbalance, and too few peaches in the peaches and cream dessert About the Stars Perfection: * * * * Very Good: * * * Good: * * Below Par: * Serious Flaws: No stars Etc. restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they would like to have reviewed are welcome. |
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