`NEW WAY' TO TRIM FAT AND CALORIES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Whether you want to trim a few extra pounds or just eat healthier this year, take a look at ``A New Way to Cook'' by Sally Schneider (Artisan; $40).

Schneider does not consider the 756-page, 600-plus recipe volume a diet book per se, but rather a book for a healthier lifestyle. Schneider doesn't count calories or fat grams. No foods are taboo.

``It teaches people ways and techniques to cook that are leaner but at all costs and at all times acknowledges the need for pleasure and flavor. Portion sizes are ample without overdoing it.''

Her premise boils down to ``enjoy food without depriving yourself.'' Because she believes that prohibiting butter and cream and sugar only increase desire, she uses them judiciously (and in new ways) in her cooking to avoid sacrificing flavor and satisfaction.

The book was an outgrowth of 20 years of experimenting and trying to figure out ways to keep her weight in check while continuing to have extraordinary food experiences and respecting the realities of her body (and her food sensitivities).

``I've tried all the diets everyone else has - the high carbo, high protein, macrobiotics, etc. - but they didn't work for me.''

A professional chef (with no formal training) for six years in the late '70s and early '80s, the Greenwich Village native grew up in a family of great cooks. But it was her work for a health magazine in 1984 - using her creativity to develop lean recipes, write about food and style food photographs - that intensified her interest in exploring ways to cook and eat healthfully. After a year, she moved on - free-lancing food stories for several publications and writing a monthly low-calorie cooking column for Food and Wine magazine and her first cookbook, ``The Art of Low-Calorie Cooking'' (1991).

Her cooking style is mostly influenced by the Mediterranean cooking of Italy, France, Greece and Spain, as well as by American regional foods with a smattering of Asian overtones.

Schneider believes that the amount of exercise, the quantity of food and the way in which food is eaten (the pleasure and connection that is derived) are key to balance and the body working well.

The book includes a wealth of information and ideas, along with guides to improvising (templates written in recipe form), a list of ingredient sources, techniques, recipes, menu suggestions, flavor catalysts and much more. In the back of the book, you'll find nutritional analyses of recipes, along with useful charts comparing various cuts of meat, cooking fats and dairy products (for instance, a tablespoon of regular sour cream had 26 calories, while the same amount of reduced-fat or light sour cream has 20 calories).

Schneider, who never buys fast food (she doesn't like it) and who limits takout food to roasted chicken, is ``encouraging people to cook, to grow their cooking habits (by expanding them a bit) and to gradually ease into a way of living that is more healthful and connected.''

SAUCING PASTA WITH FLAVORFUL FATS

(A Guide to Improvising)

Using this technique, you need only about 1 1/2 teaspoons fat to sauce a serving of pasta. Boiling the fat with some of the pasta cooking water creates an emulsified sauce that coats the pasta with flavor. If you take this method one step further and add a handful of grated cheese with cooking water, it melts into a creamy sauce. Try the classic combination of fresh fettuccine with Caciocavallo cheese, unsalted butter and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

Water

Salt

8 ounces dried pasta (any shape)

2 tablespoons flavorful fat, such as extra-virgin olive oil, flavored oil, unsalted butter OR brown butter

Pinch sugar

1/2 cup freshly grated OR shaved aged cheese such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Fiore Sardo, pecorino Romano, Caciocavallo OR Manchego (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4 tablespoons minced fresh herbs such as basil, flat-leaf parsley, chervil OR chives (optional)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt liberally, then stir in pasta. Cook until al dente (tender but still slightly firm to bite).

Using a measuring cup, scoop out 1/2 cup cooking water. Drain pasta. Return 1/4 cup cooking water to pot, along with fat and sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil vigorously 30 seconds to create an emulsion. Return pasta to pot and toss to coat with sauce, adding a tablespoon or two more water if pasta seems dry.

To make a creamy sauce, add 1/4 cup grated cheese and remaining pasta water; stir over low heat until pasta is creamy.

Pepper generously and toss with herbs. Serve at once, passing remaining 1/4 cup grated cheese on side. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: This method gives proportions for 4 servings. To serve fewer or more people, figure on 1 1/2 teaspoons fat and about 1 to 2 tablespoons of pasta cooking water per 1-cup serving of cooked pasta (2 ounces uncooked).

ROSEMARY BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

The butter here has been cut down to the minimum amount necessary - about a third that of traditional recipes - by adding a little sour cream to provide richness. To make up for the loss of some of the buttery flavor, scent the biscuits with fresh rosemary.

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour, plus a little for rolling

2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably nonaluminum

1/2 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

2 1/2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter

2 tablespoons regular sour cream

3/4 cup buttermilk 

In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and rosemary. With a pastry cutter or 2 table knives, cut in butter and sour cream until mixture resembles very coarse meal. Make a well in center and pour in buttermilk. With a fork, stir until mixture just holds together. Gather dough together and knead in bowl 6 OR 7 times.

On a lightly floured work surface, pat or roll dough to a 1/2-inch thickness. Cut into rounds with a floured 2 1/4-inch cookie cutter or a thin inverted glass. Place biscuits about 1-inch apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Reroll scraps and cut out more biscuits. Cover with waxed paper, refrigerate, and let rest 20 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Bake in preheated 450-degree oven 12 to 14 minutes, until lightly browned. Serve hot. Makes 12 (2 1/2-inch) biscuits.

WILD RICE WITH LEEKS AND WILD MUSHROOMS

This makes an excellent side dish for meats, poultry and roast duck or a good stuffing for chickens.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter

8 leeks, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick circles, separated, rinsed and drained (4 cups)

3 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 pound wild mushrooms, such as morel, chanterelle OR shiitake, stems trimmed, left whole if small, otherwise sliced (about 2 cups)

1/4 cup medium-dry sherry

2 cups cooked wild rice

2 teaspoons slivered lemon peel

Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium nonstick skillet, cook butter over moderately low heat until it is amber and smells like roasted nuts. Spoon 2 teaspoons into a small bowl and reserve.

Add sliced leeks, water and salt to skillet. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, until leeks are soft and most of liquid has evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes. Uncover and saute until dry.

Add mushrooms, cover, and cook until wilted and soft, about 4 minutes. Toss a few times and add sherry and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add reserved brown butter and cooked wild rice and saute until rice is hot; add a few tablespoons water if mixture is dry. Stir in slivered lemon peel and pepper to taste. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

LASAGNA NOODLES WITH PESTO AND VEGETABLES

(ON THE COVER)

This is a play on two classic Ligurian pasta dishes - layered pesto lasagna and trenette with pesto, green beans and potatoes. Use commercially made fresh pasta sheets and cut them yourself. The dish also works well with fresh fettuccine or trenette. Any number of tender green vegetables can be used.

Water

Salt

Scant 2 cups green vegetables, such as shelled and peeled fava beans (3 pounds in the pod; pods removed, then skins removed with thumbnail after cooking beans in boiling water 2 to 3 minutes; OR 3/4 pound asparagus OR green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces; OR 3/4 pound sugar snap peas, strings removed and sliced into thirds on a diagonal

12 ounces fresh pasta sheets, cut lengthwise into 2-inch-wide strips OR commercial OR homemade fresh pappardelle, fettuccine OR trenette

1/2 cup Mortar-Made Pesto Sauce (recipe follows)

Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt well. Place vegetables (except fava beans, which will already have been blanched) in a large strainer, immerse in water and cook until tender, 2 to 5 minutes. Remove from water and let drain in a bowl.

Stir pasta into water and cook until al dente (tender but still firm to bite). Using a measuring cup, scoop out about 1/3 cup cooking water. Drain pasta. Return pasta to pot OR transfer to a warm serving bowl and add vegetables. Spoon on Mortar-Made Pesto Sauce and 1 tablespoon cooking water and toss pasta until well coated with pesto, adding a tablespoon or two more cooking water if necessary to loosen it. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: You can prepare vegetables, cut pasta (if necessary), and make pesto up to 6 hours ahead. Wrap well OR cover and refrigerate.

MORTAR-MADE PESTO SAUCE

Liguria's famous sauce has great character and finesse, with many permutations. Made as it should be in a mortar with a pestle, pesto is a very different sauce from the one most Americans know. The flavor of each element remains clear and distinct within a mellow, sweet and creamy whole. Surprisingly, it takes hardly any more time in a mortar than it does using a food processor.

2 large bunches small-leafed basil

1 garlic clove

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt OR more to taste

3 tablespoons Italian pine nuts (pignoli)

3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1/4 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil

Remove enough of the smallest and most tender basil leaves to make 4 cups loosely packed. Rinse leaves and dry well.

Cut garlic clove lengthwise in half and remove green sprout in center, if any. In a large heavy mortar, combine garlic and salt and crush to paste. Gradually add basil and, using a circular stirring motion, grind leaves until almost a paste. Add pine nuts and continue grinding mixture against sides and bottom of mortar until it is a coarse puree. Work in cheese; mixture should have texture of a thick paste. Dribble in olive oil, a little at a time, using same circular motion, until pesto is creamy. Adjust salt if necessary. Makes about 1/2 cup (4 servings).

CHOPPED SALAD FROM THE '21' CLUB

When growing up in the 1950s, Schneider's mother used to make this salad rendition that was served at New York's '21' Club. Schneider still finds the salad wonderful, but instead of the mayonnaise-based Russian dressing, she substitutes one with much less fat, made with sour cream and buttermilk.

1/4 cup regular OR reduced-fat sour cream

3 tablespoons buttermilk

3 tablespoons prepared chili sauce

1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish, drained

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/3-inch dice (1 cup)

1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1/3-inch dice (1 cup)

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/3-inch dice (1 cup)

2 celery ribs, peeled to remove tough strings and cut into 1/3-inch dice (1 cup)

2 medium tomatoes, halved crosswise, seeds and juice squeezed out and cut into 1/3-inch dice (1 cup)

1 small Vidalia OR Bermuda onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice (1/2 cup)

2 ounces extra-sharp Vermont Cheddar cheese OR dry (aged) Jack cheese, cut into 1/8-inch dice (1/2 cup)

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, stir together sour cream, buttermilk, chili sauce, horseradish and salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to mix salad.

Toss vegetables and cheese together in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Just before serving, spoon dressing over salad and toss to coat. Adjust seasoning to taste. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: You can make dressing, dice cheese and prepare all vegetables except onion and tomato up to 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. (You can store vegetables together in a plastic bag.)

OVEN-SEARED THICK FISH FILLETS

(A Guide to Improvising)

This simple method guarantees fish fillets that are browned and crisp on the outside with succulent flesh - without smoking up your kitchen. The fillets are roasted in a hot oven in a preheated metal pan so that both sides of the fish get brown and crusty, eliminating the need for preliminary stove-top searing. The fillets must be at least 1 1/4 inches thick; if they are too thin, they will overcook before they sear properly. Serve fillets with a sauce OR other accompaniment.

4 (6-ounce) thick fish fillets, such as striped bass, black bass, Chilean sea bass, halibut OR cod, with skin scored in crisscross pattern with thin sharp knife

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon grapeseed, peanut OR olive oil

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Place a heavy nonstick ovenproof skillet OR baking pan in oven to heat 5 minutes.

Pat fillets dry with paper towels. Sprinkle each fillet lightly with salt and a pinch cayenne.

Carefully pour oil into hot pan and swirl to coat completely. Add fish skin side down and roast until skin is nicely browned, about 5 minutes, depending on thickness of fish. Carefully turn fish over and bake 4 to 5 minutes longer. To check if fish is done, push a two-pronged kitchen fork straight down into flesh. If you feel no resistance, fish is cooked; if it feels as though fork is pushing through a membrane, return fish to oven for another minute or two. Remove from oven and let rest 2 minutes before serving. Makes 4 servings.

EVERYDAY VINAIGRETTE

This is the dressing Schneider uses the most. It goes with just about any food without overwhelming it.

3 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon aged sherry vinegar

Good pinch kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons hot water

Combine balsamic and sherry vinegars and salt in a small jar or bowl. Cover jar and shake vigorously or stir to dissolve salt. Add oil and hot water, cover jar and shake vigorously OR stir until mixture is uniform. Use at once. Or store in a tightly sealed jar in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. If vinaigrette separates upon standing, mix again. Makes scant 1/2 cup.

RICH FAUX CREAM

Here's a low-fat dessert cream that is a delicious and realistic alternative for those who should not have the real thing. It has nearly the consistency and flavor of lightly whipped cream, although it is somewhat more dense. A half cup of this cream contains only 4 grams of fat, as compared to 24 grams in 1/2 cup of real whipped cream. It can be flavored in the same way as real whipped cream.

1 cup no-salt low-fat (1 percent) cottage cheese 

2 teaspoons superfine sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

2 teaspoons regular OR reduced-fat sour cream

2 teaspoons heavy whipping cream 

Puree cottage cheese, sugar and vanilla in a food processor until very smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape mixture into a small bowl and fold in sour cream and heavy cream. Serve as is or flavor with ground cinnamon, allspice, etc. or 1/2 teaspoon liqueur OR other alcohol such as bourbon. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Will keep, covered and refrigerated, about 1 week. Makes 1 cup.

YOGURT SAUCE WITH TOASTED SPICES, LIME PEEL AND BASIL

This deceptively simple recipe from chef Gray Kunz is an example of the magic of a few well-chosen ingredients artfully combined. The flavor of the yogurt is essential to the sauce and provides the base for an unusual combination of flavors. Use whole-milk yogurt for this sauce, preferably sheep's milk yogurt, which is extremely creamy and luxurious. The acidity and lack of body typical of nonfat and many low-fat yogurts would undermine the sauce. The sauce is wonderful on fresh or cooked vegetables OR grilled OR oven-seared seafood.

Scant 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

4 coriander seeds

Seeds from 1 cardamom pod

1 cup whole-milk OR sheep's milk yogurt

8 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

1/2 small serrano OR jalapeno chile, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon finely grated lime peel

1/8 teaspoon sugar

Pinch kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small skillet, toast cumin, coriander and cardamom seeds over moderate heat until fragrant. Set aside to cool slightly. In a blender OR a spice grinder, grind toasted spices to a fine powder. Strain powder through a fine sieve into a small bowl.

In a medium bowl, combine yogurt, basil, chile, lime peel, sugar and 1/2 teaspoon spice powder OR more to taste. Stir in salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate 30 minutes before serving to let flavors marry. Makes 1 cup.

NOTE: This sauce is best served the day it is made, but it will keep up to 2 days in refrigerator, with a slight fading of flavor.

To duplicate whole-milk yogurt, mix equal parts low-fat yogurt and regular or reduced-fat sour cream.

WHERE IT'S AT WITH FAT

Here are some of Sally Schneider's techniques for lightening up and trimming fat and calories when cooking and dining.

--``Pasta's fat and calorie content is largely determined by how it is dressed,'' says Schneider, adding that with a heavy-handed embellishment like a cream sauce it can take on hundreds of additional calories. A cup of cooked pasta contains about 210 calories. Schneider suggests saucing with a mixture based on vegetables with small bits of braised meat or poultry - or small amounts of fats mixed with some of the pasta cooking water and minced fresh herbs and a little grated cheese (a basic recipe is included today).

--Use a brush (inexpensive natural-bristle paintbrushes work well) to coat foods with fat - as you'll use far less than if you drizzle it on. To keep the brush from soaking up the fat, first dampen it with water and squeeze water out.

--Avoid overdressing salads. Generally it takes only about 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons of vinaigrette to dress 2 cups of greens. Use buttermilk and sour cream instead of mayonnaise for a classic coleslaw dressing.

--The oven is a great tool. It concentrates flavors and often caramelizes the outsides of foods. Try roasting vegetables and fruits (for desserts) lightly brushed with olive oil, pancetta fat or butter. Or bake in foil packages. By cooking food in its own juices, you get the sensation of richness and fattiness.

--Thicken milk with rice flour to make a sauce without butter for macaroni and cheese. Use the same technique to make a cream sauce for pasta, adding a little grated Parmesan cheese and bits of cooked bacon, or blue cheese or gorgonzola, or for a vegetable gratin.

--Rely heavily on plant-based foods, which when roasted or cooked by other methods suggested in the book are very flavorful and satisfying. Serve and eat small portions of meat (4 ounces) only occasionally.

--Present limited, small amounts of cooked red meats and poultry, rare- cooked fish such as tuna, and semisoft cheeses thinly sliced and fanned out on a plate. Portions will look like an abundant serving and people won't notice they are eating less.

--Use a grill pan to quickly cook boneless chicken or duck breasts, steaks, lamb chops and pork chops. The pan is preferable to broiling for achieving a good surface crust and moist interior.

--Buy locally grown foods in season. Fruits and vegetables have more flavor when harvested ripe and eaten quickly thereafter. Shop at farmers markets.

--Use flavor catalysts such as flavor essences, dry rubs, marinades, broths, flavored oils and sauces - that you prepare in advance and keep handy - to transform simple foods into satisfying dishes on short notice.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Healthy lifestyle

New rules for cooking - no food is taboo

(2 -- color) Rosemary Buttermilk Busquits

(3 -- 4 -- color) Use an array of greens for salads, top, and dress with Everyday Vinaigrette. Wild Rice With Leeks and Wild Mushrooms, above, is a delicious side dish.

From ``A New Way to Cook,'' Artisan

(5 -- color) no caption (book: ``A NEW WAY TO COOK'')

(6) SALLY SCHNEIDER

Box:

Where It's at With Fat (see text)