`HYDROGENATED' MAY BE DIRTY WORD FOR FOOD.

Byline: ByAnne Burke Daily News Staff Writer

Health experts urge us to cut back on trans fatty acids. But for people whose eyes glaze over when the subject turns to trans unsaturated fat and low-density lipoproteins, that's a lot easier said than done.

How to start? Read, read, read, nutritionists say.

``Consumers should read the labels on food they eat and look at what the fat source is. If they see the word `hydrogenated,' those hydrogenated fats are sources of trans fatty acids,'' said Patty Carbone, a registered dietitian at Kaiser Permanente in Woodland Hills.

A study published in today's New England Journal of Medicine bolstered earlier findings that a high intake of trans fatty acids - along with the saturated fats found in meat and dairy products - is associated with an increased risk of coronary disease.

Studies have found that trans fats increase so-called bad cholesterol - low-density lipoprotein, or LDL cholesterol.

The trans fats are found in hydrogenated and partially hydrogenated vegetable oils used to make margarine, shortening, and a wide range of cookies, crackers, chips, french fries and other processed foods.

Low-fat Cap'n Crunch cereal, for example, contains trans fats in the form of partially hydrogenated cottonseed oil, the label shows. Ritz Air Crisps contain trans fats in the form of partially hydrogenated soybean oil, according to the label.

Carbone suggests heart-friendly snacks such as vegetables, unbuttered popcorn and pretzels. For toast, fruit spreads are a good alternative to butter and margarine, she said.

With margarine falling out of favor, manufacturers already have moved toward more healthful substitutes.

One of the most common culprits for trans fatty acids is stick margarine. But 60 percent of margarine now comes as the soft-tub or squeeze-bottle variety, which contain little or no trans fats, said Sue Taylor, a dietitian at the National Association of Margarine Manufacturers.

Even stick spreads are likely to be lower-fat vegetable spreads.

``Plain old margarine is really hard to find,'' Taylor said. ``The hue and cry of the public is: Give me lower-fat this, lower-fat that.''

Paul Lewin, owner of Follow Your Heart Natural Foods Market & Cafe in Canoga Park, said he is cutting out trans fatty acids, as well as other bad fats, from his menu and grocery aisles.

``It's amazing how many people come in here and say: I have heart disease. My doctor told me to cut out the fat. How can I eat better?'' Lewin said.

Cutting back would be a lot easier if fat didn't taste so good.

Marge Willis of Marge's Cookies and Quikbreads in Northridge uses butter - without apology - for her gourmet almond crunch, chocolate chip, lemon and oatmeal cookies.

``It's OK, as long as you don't gorge yourself,'' she said.