``NO BLARNY! IRISH CUISINE NOW SOPHISTICATED AND CHIC.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Just in time for St. Patrick's Day, you can get a taste of what's cooking in Ireland today from the recently released ``Elegant Irish Cooking'' by Noel C. Cullen (Lebhar-Friedman Books; $35). And it's not all about potatoes or corned beef and cabbage or one-pot cooking, as many believe, says Cullen, a chef and native of Dublin who now works in Boston as an associate professor of culinary arts at Boston University School of Hospitality.

``I never had corned beef in my life until I came to America in 1986,'' he adds with a laugh.

Although the book contains a few of Cullen's old and traditional favorites passed down through the generations - like Irish Soda Bread and Irish Lamb Stew - the author views this volume as ``a celebration of elegant cooking that reflects the current excellence of Irish culinary ingenuity.'' < On its pages you'll find dishes like lettuce and nutmeg soup, pan fried salmon with sorrel, apple and scallion relish, rack of lamb with an herb crust and mint-butter sauce, Dublin Bay prawn bisque, bread-and-butter pudding with whiskey sauce and Bailey's Irish Cream caramel.

An outgrowth of a college class Cullen taught, the book took a year and a half to compile and write. He and photographer Ron Manville spent four adventurous weeks in a van traveling around the country to capture the food and beautiful landscapes that come alive in the pages.

``Irish cooking now ranks among the best in the world,'' Cullen says. The high level of chefs' cooking skills, their passion for cooking and the excellent-quality food products available all add up. Many of the foods are native to the country - such as outstanding beef, lamb, pork, seafood, venison, specialty cheeses and other dairy products along with magnificent vegetables of all kinds and summer fruits.

He focuses on the culinary revolution sweeping Ireland that began in the '80s when a profusion of talented people opened superb restaurants in County Kerry and County Cork. This upgrading of Irish cuisine was fueled by tourism, industry, a prosperous economy, natives with more discretionary income and local diner sophistication.

``The restaurant industry and cuisine have undergone dramatic changes during the past two decades,'' Cullen notes, adding that the travels and exposure of Irish chefs to other international cuisines have also played a significant role. In addition, training facilities and professional programs were developed to implement the culinary arts and education and encourage chefs and want-to-be chefs to hone their culinary skills.

``Ireland has evolved into a haven for the discerning diner,'' Cullen says. Dublin has had a proliferation of restaurants in the last 15 years - and one specific area has 40 restaurants alone.

To prove his point, Cullen showcases creations collected from some 35 of the country's best new breed of chefs (mostly from Southern Ireland with a few Northerners tossed in). But Cullen streamlined and tested the recipes in a home kitchen environment to make them accessible and doable for home cooks. Many of them - like Leek and Irish Cashel Blue Cheese Soup from Bruno Schmidt, the chef at Park Hotel, Kenmare, County Kerry and Fillet of Sea Bass and Shrimp With Wild Mushrooms and Nettle Butter from Colin O'Daly, chef at Roly's Bistro, Dublin, appear fairly simple.

The soup contains only eight ingredients and if you can't locate Irish cashel cheese, another blue-veined cheese such as stilton or gorgonzola will suffice. Likewise, if nettles are unavailable, Cullen suggests substituting sorrel.

A Hot Chocolate Tart shared by Eugene McSweeney, proprietor at Lacken House Restaurant, Kilkenny, also sounds tempting and looks like a breeze to turn out, with only five ingredients.

A few minor carps. Some of the recipe ingredient lists are not arranged in the order used, which can be annoying. And the Irish soda bread has several major ingredient mistakes and other problems (we are including the correct recipe here), making one question some of the editing in this volume. That said, the photography is beautiful and the historical perspective interesting.

Bottom line: It's all about modernizing and revitalizing old dishes and blending native, first-class Irish ingredients into what Cullen refers to as progressive Irish cuisine.

Cullen believes that good cooking is dependent on the quality of the basic ingredients - and the less the chef does to them the better. Natural flavors must emerge, he says, and sauces should complement, not cloak the flavors. ``Good food beautifully and simply cooked is the essence of a great dining experience.''

To celebrate the wearin' o' the green next week, give these recipes from ``Elegant Irish Cooking'' a try.

PORTRUSH SCALLOPS WITH BABY LEEKS IN A CITRUS VINAIGRETTE

SCALLOPS:

18 large scallops, in shell

1/2 teaspoon olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

1 carrot, julienned and cut into 2-inch strips

2 baby leeks, julienned and white portions cut into 2-inch strips

Water

1 tablespoon butter, melted

VINAIGRETTE:

2 medium oranges, peeled, seeded and segmented

1 lemon, peeled, seeded and segmented

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For Scallops, open and separate scallops. Slice horizontally, with roe attached and pan fry in olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat, 10 seconds.

Remove scallops from pan, keep warm. Discard oil; add green onions and cook 30 seconds. Return scallops to pan and toss with green onions, 15 seconds. Blanch carrots and leeks in boiling salted water 30 seconds. Strain and shock in ice-cold water. Gently toss well-drained vegetables with 1 tablespoon butter.

For Vinaigrette, place orange and lemon segments in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse until pureed. Gradually add oil while machine is running. Pass through a fine mesh strainer.

To serve, warm Vinaigrette and pour onto warmed deep-dish plates. Arrange scallops with roe on top of vinaigrette. Divide vegetables equally among 4 plates. Makes 4 servings.

From Sandra Griffin, chef/owner, Magherabouy House Hotel, Co. Antrim.

CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE SALAD

TRADITIONAL IRISH SODA BREAD

While there are many variations of Irish soda bread, this one is the most traditional and has been passed from generation to generation. Irish soda breads containing raisins are known in some areas of Ireland as Spotted Dog.

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons grated orange peel

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1/4 pound (1 stick) butter, softened

1 cup dried currants

1/4 cup honey

1 to 1 1/2 cups buttermilk OR sour milk, at room temperature

1 egg beaten with 2 tablespoons milk, for glaze

In a large bowl, sift and combine flour, baking powder and baking soda. Add salt, orange peel and caraway seeds. Using a pastry cutter or fingers, cut in or blend butter into flour mixture until dough resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in currants and set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine honey with 1 to 1 1/2 cups buttermilk. Stir into flour mixture until dry ingredients are moistened. Turn out onto a floured surface (dough will be sticky).

Knead 1 minute. Cut dough in half. Shape each piece into a round loaf. Place on a greased and flour-dusted baking sheet. Dip a sharp knife into flour and cut a 1/2-inch deep cross on top of each loaf. Brush loaves with egg-milk glaze. Let stand 10 minutes before baking. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven, 35 to 40 minutes. To test for doneness, turn bread over and tap underneath. If the bread sounds hollow, it is fully cooked. Cool on racks before slicing. Slice thin or cut in wedges. Makes 2 loaves.

PAN-FRIED SALMON WITH SORREL, APPLE AND GREEN ONION RELISH

4 (4- to 6-ounce) salmon fillets, boneless and skinless

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Juice of 1 whole lemon

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 tablespoons butter

2 Granny Smith apples, diced

1 bunch green onions, chopped

1 small bunch sorrel, shredded (about 8 leaves)

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 lemon, sliced or quartered, for garnish

Dry salmon on paper towels and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Add oil and 2 tablespoons butter to a large skillet and heat over medium/high heat. Place salmon fillets (presentation side down) in hot skillet. Fry until golden brown, turning at least twice.

In a separate saucepan, heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter until hot. Add diced apples and green onions and cook over medium heat about 2 minutes. Divide among 4 dinner plates. Place cooked salmon fillets on top. Sprinkle sorrel and parsley over salmon. Garnish with lemon slices or wedges. Makes 4 servings.

From Colin O'Daly, chef, Roly's Bistro, Dublin

ROASTED PEPPERED SALMON WITH TOMATO-AND-BASIL RELISH

SALMON:

1 pound salmon fillet, trimmed and all bones removed

1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns

1 teaspoon chopped dill

1 whole lime

TOMATO-AND-BASIL RELISH:

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 shallots, diced fine

1 cup dry white wine

6 large plum tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped roughly into large chunks

1 tablespoon finely shredded basil leaves

To make Salmon, cut salmon into 4 equal parts. Coat with cracked peppercorns and dill. Grate a little lime peel over salmon. Place on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven, 6 to 8 minutes.

To make Tomato-and-Basil Relish, in a medium saucepan, place 1 teaspoon olive oil, garlic and shallots. Saute over medium heat, 1 minute, without browning. Add white wine and lime juice from whole lime.. Reduce by half. Add tomato chunks, basil leaves and remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Mix and gently heat, 1 minute.

Place relish in the center of 4 warmed deep-dish plates. Arrange salmon on top. Decorate with fresh dill sprigs and peeled tomato wedges, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

From John Coughlan, ``MasterChefs,'' Dublin.

Irish coffee for St. Patrick's Day

A variety of tastes and flavors are added to coffee according to national, regional or local tastes. Irish coffee, popularized in the early 1940s in Ireland's Shannon airport, is one of the world's favorite specialty coffees.

Well-made, Irish coffee consists of hot, strong, black coffee, sugar to taste, with a measure of Irish whiskey, all topped with cold, fresh, heavy cream.

COFFEE: Your favorite brand is adequate, but freshly ground, freshly made coffee, made 25 percent stronger than usual, will produce the best results. Use 5 to 6 ounces per glass.

SUGAR: Traditionally, Demerara brown sugar has been served with Irish coffee. Any type of sugar will suffice, but Irish brown sugar is best. Originally, 2 teaspoons were used in each glass, and many believe this is essential, but, if the other ingredients, particularly the cream, are of good quality, Irish coffee can be made without sugar.

CREAM:Top-grade heavy, unwhipped cream, straight from the fridge, should be used. Pour approximately 1/4 cup per glass over the back of a spoon and gently float on top of the hot coffee.

WHISKEY: Only a small measure of real Irish whiskey, made in Ireland (brands such as Jameson, Pady, Power and Tullamore Dew) should be used in each glass.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo: (1 -- cover -- color) Salmon with tomato-and-basil relish is a breeze to prepare.

(2 -- 3 -- color) Pan-Fried Salmon with Sorrel, Apple and Green Onion Relish, at left, is an interesting way to prepare salmon. In Ireland, scallops tend to be larger than in the U.S. Use whatever you can find in this dish with baby leeks in a citrus vinaigrette, above.

Photos from ``Elegant Irish Cooking,'' Lebhar-Friedman Books

(4 -- color) no caption (``Elegant Irish Cooking'')

Box: Irish coffee for St. Patrick's Day (see text)

Source: This information is from Christopher Sands, Lecturer, Dublin Institute of Technology and appears in ``Elegant Irish Cooking.''