: Taste Test: Prime time; Gareth Hughes at Number 1's Bistro, Llandudno.

Byline: Gareth Hughes

WORKING to deadlines is an accepted part of any journalist's routine and even writing up Taste Test reports is done with an eye on the calendar, if not the clock.

That is probably one of the reasons that I have always felt that eating out should be a relaxed, unhurried affair.

Many is the time that I have called to book a table, only to be told that they can fit us in at a certain time on the understanding that we leave within a couple of hours to make way for other customers. Whenever that happens I normally demur and seek somewhere else, as I dislike the idea of eating to schedule.

I really don't know what persuaded me to accept such a condition when I rang the Number 1's Bistro in Llandudno, except that I had already failed to get a table at one other restaurant for the same evening.

Or perhaps it was because I have happy memories of several past meals there, the last of which - and I relate it purely as a shameless piece of name-dropping - was in the company of the Bishop of St Asaph.

Displayed on the bar on that occasion were samples of a trendy new beer being promoted, which was called - I kid you not - Bishop's Finger.

This time, and I am sure she'll forgive me for saying so, the company was slightly less exalted, but in over 10 years of Testing it was the first time for my sister to accompany me.

The signs were good when, to my astonishment, I was able to park right opposite the restaurant, which is tucked away in Old Road, a side street close to the town centre where finding a parking space can sometimes be a problem.

We were the first customers to arrive and so were quickly attended to but, even though the place soon filled up, the service remained prompt and attentive throughout our two-hour stay.

The waiter explained that it was possible to ``mix and match'' the a la carte and table d'hote menus, which we thought was a good idea and one we took up.

There was a choice of five starters and five main courses on the set menu, and six sweets, with two courses costing pounds 17.45 and three courses costing pounds 21.45.

I started with Chinese stir-fried chicken strips with cashew nuts and plum sauce, served on a spring leaf salad, and it was excellent, all the ingredients nicely complementing each other.

My sister had pork rilette - no, we didn't know exactly what to expect either - but it sounded and proved to be interesting. It was described as ``slowly cooked pork flavoured with garlic, allspice, star anise and white wine, cooled and pressed and served with a date and onion chutney and toasted brioche'', all of which may sound a bit much but it was a success.

We also did justice to the delicious warm bread which preceded the meal.

For main course I chose medallions of pork fillet and oyster mushrooms, accompanied by a black peppercorn and cream sauce, and a selection of perfectly cooked vegetables. Pork and oyster mushrooms, even separately, are favourites of mine, and in combination were even more impressive.

The No 1 has something of a reputation for its seafood and my sister opted for the oven-baked halibut with a mustard and fennel butter. Again, she declared it a hit, the fennel content being just strong enough without being overpowering.

The service had been so prompt that we still had plenty of time in hand before our two hours were up, and the waiter even asked whether we would like a break before the third course. We were glad to take up his offer and took our time deciding on the sweets. All six choices sounded equally acceptable.

The one irritation during the meal was that three of the four people on the table immediately behind ours were smokers, and lit up at every opportunity.

Admittedly, Number 1's is a pretty confined place but surely it's possible to sit smokers at the tables closest to the door?

Eventually, after a short breather, I opted for coffee and toasted almond Bavarian cream served on a Tia Maria-flavoured sauce anglaise, while my sister had iced praline parfait on a chocolate and Cointreau sauce.

We each took a spoonful before realising we had been served the wrong dishes, but it meant we would agree that they were as good as each other. They were perfect finales, rich, tasty and refreshing.

It was only as we were finishing our coffee and petit fours, just a few minutes inside our deadline, that the diners arrived for the 9pm booking, and whilst it might have been nice to have lingered a little longer we did not wait to be told that we had outstayed our welcome.

the bill

Three-course set meals (2): pounds 42.90

Coffee (2): pounds 3.90

Soft drinks (2): pounds 3.15

Total (incl gratuity): pounds 54.95

notes

Number 1's, in Old Road, is close to the Great Orme tram station. Dinners served 5.30pm--9.30pm, Monday--Saturday. To book call 01492-875424.

Food: Interesting, well-prepared and nicely presented Surroundings: Cosy, perhaps too confined.

Disabled access: Restricted room the main problem. Service: Friendly and efficient.

Overall: Quite pricey but quality fare.

Previous Taste Test reports are available on our website www.icnorthwales.co.uk/entertainment/eatingout

CAPTION(S):

TOP OF THE SHOP:; Expect a quality meal when dining at Number 1's Bistro Picture: Richard Williams