: Great Expectations; Louise Malone at the West Tower, Aughton.

AFTER hearing good reports of the West Tower in Aughton my husband and I set off with great expectations of what was in store.

Set down a secluded country lane which isn't marked at one end, the restaurant and hotel aren't easy to find. But the initial omens were good.

The impression is one of approaching a castle-like country house. Turrets, towers and leaded light windows everywhere that one half expected Rapunzel to appear but, alas, we hadn't rode in on a white charger just a bijou Peugeot 206.

A menu encased in glass on the wall announced all manner of mouthwatering dishes.

Confit of oriental belly pork served with pak choi, crispy noodles and sweet chili jam to start with at pounds 5.95 and fell-bred Cumbrian pork cutlet, maple-glazed with creamed potato, mustard seed and thyme sauce, garnished with spring baby vegetables and black pudding Beignets to follow at pounds 11.95. A mouthful indeed.

Or maybe Mrs Kirkham's souffle (pounds 9.95) or Barbary Duck (pounds 13.95) - both with equally elaborate garnish - would be more of a temptation.

On entering we were given the choice of lounges in which to look at the menu before ordering and so we sat in the cosy, wood panelled lounge, complete with love seats, high-backed leather chairs and chandeliers.

Refined, elegant and echoing an age of more genteel pretensions.

Yes, the omens were good. The Sunday lunch menu offered a choice of four starters, five main courses and three desserts. The price ranged from pounds 7.95 for one course, pounds 11.95 for two courses and pounds 13.95 for three.

Shortly after giving our order to what, it must be said, were a relatively-young waiting on staff, we were shown to our table. The waitress carried our drinks and placed a linen napkin across my lap.

Small things, but it is touches such as these which mark out those places trying to give a little extra to its diners.

Storm clouds were appearing beyond the patio doors as I looked out onto the green openness of Aughton but then had to readjust my view as a waitress proffered a basket of bread rolls from which there was a selection of wholemeal, tomato, white or crustry.

The dining area was split over two levels and the traditional country house look gave way to a more contemporary, minimalist feel. Laminate flooring, armless chairs and curved mirrors set the tone but the white linen tablecloths and napkins showed that good taste never goes out of fashion.

For starters my husband had sauteed chicken livers flambeed in brandy, served with smoked bacon and cream on brioche.

It was an unusual choice for him and he found no complaints with it but, despite the involved description, it failed to enliven his tastebuds.

My melon with mango salsa, coconut sorbet and passion fruit syrup sounded intriguing and was.

Presented piled on top of each other thewater and honey dew melon were symmetrically placed within a pattern of diced mango, strawberries and on top resided a scoop of coconut sorbet.

The flavours were subtle which may have contributed to a dish which didn't have any particular taste. The sweetness of the mango was refreshing but the rest passed into history without a backward glance.

Plates were whisked away and before too long the main courses were placed before us. I had the roast of the day which was pork with the trimmings - which turned out to be pork scratching. I also had to ask for the apple sauce.

Roast and boiled potatoes already sat on the plate with slices of pork while the waiter haphazardly spooned on broccoli and carrots.

My husband's medium-cooked roast sirloin of beef with Yorkshire pudding came with the same types of potatoes and additional spooned-on vegetables.

Neither were particularly memorable. They were cooked properly, but lacked any flavour and were overwhelmingly disappointing.

I found the scratching too tough and - following our orders to bring home any leftovers - I asked could it be wrapped up to take away. The waitress seemed a little surprised and asked if it was for the dog. It was our turn to be surprised because the recipient was my father-in-law and although he likes to go for long walks there is nothing else particularly canine about him.

We did note the speed with which people were receiving their food after ordering and wondered if the dishes were preprepared on the day.

After such a bland meal my tastebuds were in need of revitalising and my inclination was to order something sweet from the desserts.

It had started to rain by now and my eyes sought out some kind of pie with fresh cream but instead found strawberries and cream, three different flavours of ice cream and cheese and biscuits.

A request to the waiter brought the a la carte menu which was classic in appearance being ribbon-bound and, after a hard decision, my choice of chocolate fudge brownie was apparently not feasible.

Surprisingly my husband never ordered a dessert but we settled for coffees and devoured the chocolate mint that came with them.

After paying the bill I paid a visit to the powder room on the first floor after negotiating the wide staircase and winding corridors to find a framed restaurant review from Lancashire Life on a wall in the ladies.

There were plaudits in that one but it's a shame there are brickbats in this one.

Maybe a midweek visit when the fish and steak dishes are half price or a Saturday night when we could have carte blanche from the a la carte menu would yield more satisfying meals.

We set the 206 in the direction of home feeling somehow cheated out of a flavoursome and intriguing meal.

Oh, those great expectations.

notes:

West Tower Country House Hotel and Restaurant, Mill Lane, Aughton, Ormskirk, L39 7HJ.

Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone].

Food: disappointingly bland Service: reserved Surroundings: a mix of country classic and contemporary chic Disabled access: steps in, up and all over Smoking: ashtrays on the table Parking: plenty outside Overall: much anticipated but disappointing

the bill:

chicken livers and sirloin of beef: pounds 11.95 Melon and roast of the day: pounds 11.95 Beverages: pounds 7 Coffee x 2: pounds 2.60 Total: pounds 33.50