: Eating in: When the Boat comes in; POTS, pots, pots. No, not pots and pans, but prawn pots! They are the most lively and best tasting prawns I've ever had and they're here now, so be quick.

Byline: Les Rennie

Here in Cardigan Bay - Borth to be precise - Abbo, as he's known, a one-man-band operation, is out fishing in his small boat with plenty of pots as soon as May is here.

These glorious prawns are only available until the end of June. The tiny little creatures appear every year around the same time. They come in towards land to spawn in rock pools about six metres below the surface. Once Abbo has got them on the boat it's time to start picking through so that the prawns with eggs can be thrown back. His hands are like leather - we would have to wear gloves to do his job.

I'm lucky because once Abbo's back on dry land within one hour I've got ultra-fresh and lively prawns in the kitchen. The first thing to do is to bring a pan of water to the boil and add some salt. Fill another container with half water and half ice. Drop the prawns in the boiling water for two seconds and then straight into the water/ice mixture. We're not trying to cook them, but this makes them ten times easier to peel (top tip, eh?). Then peel and de-head them. You can do this the day before and leave them in the fridge.

However, if you're not as lucky as me and can't get these little gems, normal prawns from the fishmonger will work the same.

Just try to buy them raw and not already blanched. And, just in case you're wondering, no, Abbo does not want me to give his telephone number (sorry).

You don't have to be arranging a dinner party to cook prawns. They are so versatile, quick and easy to cook, why not have them with a simple green salad?

After all, it's the prawns you want to taste.LOCAL BORTH PRAWNS AND PEA RISOTTO Serves fourRisotto 150g/5oz carnolini or arborio rice 75g/3oz onion (finely diced) 1 2 garlic clove (crushed) a sprig of rosemary 10 spinach leaves (finely sliced) 200g/8oz raw peas (shelled fresh) 38g/1 1 2 oz butter 350ml/12 fl oz water or chicken stock salt and pepper 125g/4 1 2 oz Parmesan cheese (grated)Prawns200g/8oz prawns (peeled) 25g/1oz chives (finely chopped) 50g/2oz butter salt and pepper half a lemon Place the onion, garlic and butter in a pan and gently sweat without allowing the onion and garlic to colour. Put the water/stock in a separate pan and bring to the boil, then take the pan off the heat.

Add the rice to the soft onion mix and stir well. Add a little of the water/stock to the rice and stir. Keep the heat low (it must never boil fiercely) while the liquid is absorbed by the rice. Continue adding liquid in small amounts until all is used - which will probably take about 15 minutes. Then add the spinach, rosemary, salt and pepper to the rice. If, at this stage, it looks a little dry add a drop of water.

Quickly blanch the peas in boiling water. Pick out the rosemary from the rice and discard. Add the Parmesan and peas.

Place a spoonful of risotto in a ring mould (or round biscuit cutter) on each plate.

Meantime, place the butter for the prawns in a hot frying pan and add the prawns when the butter is melted. Quickly fry for two minutes. Add the salt and pepper, chives and a squeeze of lemon. Place a circle of prawns about 3cm away from the risotto on each plate. Drizzle the sauce from the frying pan over the prawns, remove the ring moulds (or biscuit cutters), and serve immediately.

l Les Rennie is the head chef at Ynyshir Hall, Eglwysfach, near Machynlleth