'I'D LIKE TO THANK MY DESIGNER ...'.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

The right dress can launch a career.

For the actor and the designer.

Last year at the Oscars, Gwyneth Paltrow and Ralph Lauren worked media magic to the hilt with a bubblegum pink ballgown.

At the Grammys, Jennifer Lopez and Donatella Versace created an even bigger splash with a below-the-navel neckline that had cameras flashing and tongues wagging. Although she gave green a boost in the color charts, it was the world's reaction to that cleavage that's sure to cause other actors to take the plunge at this year's Academy Awards, predict numerous stylists-to-the stars. And rumor has it that not only Lopez, but Hilary Swank has booked Oscar appointments at Versace.

This marriage of actor and designer started in the late `80s when Italian designer Giorgio Armani dressed a few stars for the Oscars and became a household name. Now everybody wants a piece of the action, so designers woo Hollywood stars with lavish parties, free use of gowns and jewels, and incredible gifts.

For instance, Escada is not only giving pricey Swarovski crystal-beaded evening clutch bags to each of the five best actress nominees (and fancy crystal-accented sunglasses to the stars' stylists), but the German design house held a private brunch at the swanky Peninsula Hotel in Beverly Hills this month for stars to view 45 couture (one-of-a-kind) gowns priced at $10,000 to $30,000 each.

Over champagne, fish cakes, fruit and muffins, guests including Jane Seymour, Salma Hayek, Angela Bassett, Geena Davis and Kim Basinger (and their stylists) browsed through the racks of gowns available for loan or purchase.

Clearly, this year's trends were to brilliant colors (lots of red and green) and fitted bodices lavishly embroidered with bugle beads and tiny sequins. Some were strapless, others had spaghetti straps, but there were plenty of halter neck styles with plunging necklines and bare backs. And several gowns featured a spider web design on the back.

Any one of those gowns could turn an everyday career girl into Cinderella, but Seymour quickly zeroed in on a hot pink and lime green gown with an elegantly beaded front and huge train. ``This is it!'' she exclaimed as she modeled the gown, which was a perfect fit and came with a matching green stole.

Savvy Seymour tried on other gowns, but said the pink and green number will photograph very well. And she knows that's the name of the game.

By the time the brunch was over, actresses Mena Suvari of ``American Beauty,'' Kathy Baker of ``The Cider House Rules'' and Bassett also chose Escada designs. And according to the Stuart Weitzman shoe manufacturer, Suvari will wear their rhinestone sandals with it.

Also hosting an open house at the Peninsula was Amsale, the designer favored by Halle Berry, Lucy Liu and Basinger. According to the designer's liaison, Jill Eisenstadt of Full Picture, ``American Beauty'' star Thora Birch has agreed to wear the designer's gowns but can't make up her mind on which one.

One of the bigger gown galas was Giorgio Beverly Hills Boutique's annual Oscar trunk show and cocktail party, at which director John Schulman debuted couture gowns flown in by a number of world-class design houses for stars and their stylists to inspect. As an added perk for modeling a few of the fashions, young San Fernando Valley actress Kirsten Dunst received a champagne-colored strapless gown made just for her by Jonathan Meizler for Jon Valdi.

Not bad, when you consider she wasn't nominated for anything and may not be attending the awards.

Designers Heidi Weisel and Douglas Hannant presented their Oscar-worthy gowns at the Mondrian a few days ago, while this week Joanna Mastroianni is showing her designs-on-loan at L'Ermitage. Among the Oscar party-goers in attendance was best actor nominee Richard Farnsworth's daughter, Melissa. According to Mastroianni, ``I put her in a two-piece ensemble with a sexy 'Morticia' top and embroidered tulle skirt.''

Zegna, the Italian menswear company that got a reputation as Monica Lewinsky's favorite tie maker (she gave one to the prez), is outfitting ``Hurricane'' best actor nominee Denzel Washington.

According to a Zegna publicist, Washington didn't have to come to the preview party; they delivered to his door a soft shawl-collar tuxedo valued at $1,317, with a cotton pique spread-collar shirt and a long grosgrain silk tie. He also got a pair of black socks and lace-up shoes, but he may leave the socks at home like he did for the Screen Actors Guild Awards.

A major star and last year's golden girl, Paltrow has so many designers offering free gowns and gifts that she doesn't bother going to the gown galas.

And the bigger the star, the more speculation.

Rumor is Paltrow will wear Chloe on Sunday, while best actress nominee Julianne Moore is expected to wear Chanel, which may or may not match the green frog minaudiere (French for tiny jeweled evening bag) she received from Judith Leiber. Movie fans may be wondering why the ``End of the Affair'' actress gets a frog, and according to Leiber's publicist Lisa Wells, it's actually for the raining frogs scene in her other film ``Magnolia.''

``American Beauty'' star and best actress nominee Annette Bening has passed on Escada even though they sketched several designs for her. Whatever she wears, she'll be well-accessorized with a $3,000 Leiber bag in the shape of a red rose, plus a Concord watch that features interlocking rose petals in two-toned rubies.

Concord also designed watches for the stars of other Oscar-nominated films: ``The Green Mile'' watch sports a small diamond mouse on the band; the ``Magnolia'' design has a citrine-encrusted flower clasp; the ``Hurricane'' timepiece features a solid gold face and a clasp in the form of a boxing glove; and the ``Talented Mr. Ripley'' version has a yellow peridot clasp that makes a humorous reference to the bright yellow swim trunks worn by the movie's central character.

There was no wrist watch for best supporting actor nominee Haley Joel Osment of ``The Sixth Sense,'' but British jewelers Asprey & Garrard are loaning him gold and mother-of-pearl cuff links valued at $1,250 to wear with his tuxedo. And his mother, Theresa Osment, gets to wear the British jeweler's 9.36-carat diamond necklace valued at $35,750 with a matching bracelet and earrings worth $39,250.

All the women nominees receive Daniel Swarovski crystal-beaded evening bags, and can choose between equally pricey shoemakers Jimmy Choo and Stuart Weitzman at shoe soirees going on this week. The men will have to settle for Hush Puppie's special tux pumps in black patent leather and suede.

And all the women nominees receive Smash Box's spring cosmetic collection in nifty ultrasuede hip bags designed by film costume designer Gamila.

Plus, there are free hairdos, massages, facials, Estee Lauder spa treatments and baskets of Skyy Vodka for the best actor/actress nominees. So you see, just being nominated really is an honor.

Goodie baskets

Wow, does it pay to be a presenter at the Oscars.

The person opening the envelope may not get a golden statuette, but he or she goes home with a basketful of gifties donated by Academy Award sponsors.

Of course, we're talking about THE basket, the famous Longaberger wicker basket with a specially made gold plaque. According to Clifford Miller and Michael Burkhart at TFS (The Flower Shop) in West Hollywood, the basket shape changes, and this year it's a 24-by-24-inch square that Miller and Burkhart will stuff and decorate.

``It's up to us to come up with a special packaging design, and this year we've wrapped all the gifts in muslin cloth and then topped the basket with a monstera leaf and spray of cymbidium orchids. The whole effect is earthy - rather than flashy - with a Zen feeling,'' says Miller.

This year we heard that producers Lili and Richard Zanuck will give 100 of these 40-pound baskets to presenters and talent on rehearsal night. We got an insider to spill the goods.

Here's what we found:

--Tag Heuer limited-edition watch.

--A pair of Bally loafers.

--Kodak digital camera.

--Baseball signed by Joe DiMaggio.

--Giorgio Armani sunglasses and perfume.

--Frette monogrammed robes.

--A spa day at the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel.

--One-year membership at Sports Club/LA.

--Ferragamo silk scarf.

--Montblanc pen.

--Godiva chocolates.

--Harry Winston sterling silver picture frame.

--A weekend at the Quail Lodge in Carmel.

--M.A.C. makeup products and brush set.

--Frederic Fekkai purse.

--Baccarat paperweight.

--David Yurman bracelet.

--Dunhill letter opener and cuff links.

--Christofle bowl.

--Zegna tie.

--Plus liquor, books, hosiery and stationery.

The total value? Nobody's telling, but last year's was valued at $8,000. And the basket can be reused for tailgate picnics.

Tress trends

Winona Ryder will most likely attend the Oscars in her signature pixie, but in general the hottest hair styles for the Oscars will be long, loose, textured hair ... a kind of messy 'do with a side part, says Etienne of the Vidal Sassoon Salon, who cites Cate Blanchett, Michelle Pfeiffer and Madonna as examples of the new 'do.

But expect some of the stars to sport those hot new stripes and streaks of color already seen on Christina Aguilera, Lil' Kim, Angelina Jolie and even Melissa Rivers (yeah, Joan's daughter) who wore a burgundy stripe in her hair to the recent Screen Actors Guild Awards.

Some, like Rivers, got their streaks from temporary color applied at star-struck salons. Others are wearing cool little hair pieces attached to combs or elastics.

To create your own look, try a semi-permanent color such as Fudge Rock Star Hair Colour in a tube available at salons and beauty supply stores, or go for a wash-out type like Urban Decay's UD40 in Radium blue or Gash (red); to order, call [phone]. Or just fake it with a tiny hair piece such as Manic Panic N.Y. Glamstrips that are attached to a tiny comb, or the new Revlon Spare Hair Spikes; priced at about $9 each.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos, 2 boxes

Photo: (1 -- 2) Seymour's perfect fit; below, Bening's purse.

Box: (1) Goodie baskets (See text)

(2) Tress trends (See text)