"Do you know what it means ...".

Beignets and cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde. Eggs Sardou and Bourbon Milk Punch at Brennan's. Grits with debris and chicory coffee at Mother's. Fried oysters and an Abita at Acme. Shrimp Po'Boy, dressed, and a Barq's, at Uglesich's. A Ramos Gin Fizz before lunch at Commander's Palace. A Sazerac at the bar at the Old Napoleon House. Blackened Red Fish at K-Paul's. The Neville Brothers at Tipitina's. Jean Lafitte's, Casamento's, Snug Harbor, Bayona, Praline Connection, August--surely you have your favorites, too.

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These dishes and beverages, new and old, traditional and contemporary; bars, nightclubs, music halls and restaurants, all part of the New Orleans we may never see again. As I write this, a lot of the city is still under water, and what the future holds for the source of America's two greatest inventions--jazz and cocktails--and the seat of its best regional cookery is unknown.

We are still hearing unfathomable stories, of the incompetence of the government agencies in charge, and of suffering of the abandoned. But individuals and groups have forged ahead with fundraisers and benefits to aid the city's restaurant workers and average citizens (See page 8 for the latest as we go to press). A friend of mine, infuriated by what he saw on TV, bought a ticket to Houston, rented a truck, filled it with water and diapers and headed to the Gulf. Somehow, he got there in 14 hours. That story has been replicated all over the country, even the world, as individuals who can help pitch in. The Museum of the American Cocktail has leapt into the forefront with their benefit, and I encourage all of you to help them in their efforts to lend a hand to our friends and families in the Gulf.

Those can-doers are to be congratulated, but we in this business have a special bond with that odd, exciting, romantic, baffling and dangerous city; many learned to cook or what to eat or drink there, and I urge all of you who can afford it to dig deep and contribute to whatever charity you deem most effective. Giving these days, when the pictures are stirring and appalling, has been easy. But as an industry and a country, we'll need to be prepared to participate over the long haul if we are to get the Crescent City back on its feet, cookin' and swingin'.

On a completely selfish note, the Cheers Beverage Conference itself was set for New Orleans next February, but we've obviously had to change that--some hotels were spared, but others may not be open until next June, and our obligations demanded that we move back to Irvine for 2006. But we've booked New Orleans for the conference 2007-2008, and hope all of you who have the option to make a similar commitment, either personal or professional, do so. At the very least, let's all plan on hoisting a few there, together, in 2007. I'm already counting the days.

Jack Robertiello, Editor, Cheers